Of feast and family
Wednesday, September 28, 2011 at 10:21AM 
Here we are, under two-weeks-and-counting until Thanksgiving; my bar none favourite holiday of the year. There's a laundry list of things to do between that day and this, but I've got one thing settled - a secret to stash away in case of emergency on those busy days - and it goes like this: honey and toasted nutmeg ice cream.
It was in between plans of roasts and butter rolls that I started to consider a spiced ice cream. Not for the main event, as there's tradition firmly in place for that - intended instead as a ramp up to those times of feast and family. The theory was a sound one, as, in practice, having a pint of frozen ambrosial goodness sets a humming tone of anticipation for what's to follow.
I like it alone, and I'd like it with an apple cake or a slice of pumpkin pie. In the case of the latter I think the two custards, one frozen and one, well, pie - similarly smooth but contrasting in temperature and heft - would be particularly nice on a shared plate. Or if, say, this ice cream was employed to simultaneously spark the warmth and soothe the sour of that plum crumble I talked about before, that would work too.
Having said that, I don't know if I'd want it in mounded servings. A smallish scoop suits me fine, and a smallish spoon too. There's a reason behind this uncharacteristic moderation; despite the short list of ingredients, this ice cream's taste develops slowly on the palate. It meanders. It slips along on a base of cream, and the combination of honey and nutmeg is carried to a station greater than its beginning.
And on that note, there was a point as I whisked eggs and the cream steeped, that the combined scents of the two mixtures on the counter reminded me, worryingly, of eggnog. Our relationship is tempestuous, that between the Nog and me. It starts out festive and merry but often ends in the overstepping of boundaries and things taken too far.
I'm not ready to rekindle the romance; it is one best saved for the end of the year.
Lucky for me then, that when combined, there's a levelling to the egg and the spice. While the first introduction of this ice cream might be a vague suggestion of yuletide cheer, the actual impression it leaves is altogether different.
Without the boozy undertones of rum or bourbon or brandy, whatever your mix — and I'm not critisicing a boozy undertone, as I am a big fan — but without that alcoholic throatiness, the nutmeg blooms broader; with a tickling heat, yes, and also a higher, flowery, perfumed taste that is in beautiful cooperation with the honey's similar disposition.
(But don't let my particular mood stop the addition of a spirited pour into the mix.)
So there you are, set for Thanksgiving. And October. And Wednesdays.
Honey and toasted nutmeg ice cream
Adapted from Saveur Issue #134.
I have made this ice cream once with egg yolks alone and again with whole eggs. The batch with whole eggs had a clearer, brighter flavour of honey and spice. As one would expect, the egg yolks afforded a silkier custard, which had its own merit.
In the dead of winter, in need of a cold-weather-worthy ice cream and feeling particularly blithe, I might try it with 8 egg yolks for kicks. Go with what works for you.
Ingredients
1 whole nutmeg
1 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream (35%), divided
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup liquid honey
6 egg yolks or 4 whole eggs, see head note
1/8 teaspoon salt
Grate 2 teaspoons of nutmeg into a small skillet. Toast the ground nutmeg over medium heat until aromatic, around 2 minutes. Remove to a bowl and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, combine the milk and 1/2 cup of heavy cream. Add the rest of the (whole) nutmeg to the pot with the milk mixture and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Remove from heat and allow to steep for 10 minutes.
In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks (or whole eggs, if using) with the sugar, honey and salt. Pouring in a thin, steady stream, whisk in the hot milk mixture into the eggs. Tansfer the mixture back to the pan and cook, stirring, until thickened, 8-10 minutes. Pour custard through a fine-meshed sieve into a clean bowl. Stir in the remaining 1 cup heavy cream and toasted nutmeg; cover custard lightly and chill.
Churn in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's direction then transfer to an airtight container and freeze until set.
Makes 1 quart.
Notes:
- The type of honey used will greatly impact the ice cream's flavour. A wildflower honey will be subtle and almost fresh, with the cream coming through, while a more robust buckwheat will be far more prominent.
Reader Comments (48)
Yer killing me.
This sounds like exactly the kind of ice cream I'd love.
Delicous!
This sounds heavinly! Very holidays! Beautiful shots.
damn, t.
perfect.
Well, this just sounds absolutely glorious!
This is so beautiful, Tara! I always thought I hated nutmeg, but I recently started freshly grating my own (what took me so long?) and I love it! What a difference from the pre-ground stuff. I'll have to give this a go for Thanksgiving too which is coming up way too quickly for my liking!
Good heavens...this is sooo gorgeous. For a second I forgot you were in Canada and thought I'd slept an entire month. I'm thankful that is NOT the case. ;) Happy almost Thanksgiving!
I'll be making this for our family's Thanksgiving get-together. It really looks amazing. Thanks for the recipe. :)
I've now been compelled to finally break down and buy an ice cream maker. This looks like the perfect comfort food after a long day :)
This looks just divine. I can think of a number of perfect uses for it to accessorize dessert - although nothing wrong with a spoonful on its own, it sounds... thanks again for sharing!
It looks so rich and delicious.
Mmmmm ....
I've been on a serious vanilla pudding kick lately (as in, I'm making it almost every night for myself). Tonight I might have to stir in a bit of honey and nutmeg and see how it goes.
How wonderful! I really love honey ice creams, especially because you can experiment with different kinds of honey. This looks really delicious, served in a little glass like that.
What a unique ice cream! It looks fantastic.
beautiful as always Tara :) wish you were closer so you could share ;)
I just finished the rich chocolate ice cream you shared from BA earlier this summer, and now you have another one for me to make?! i can't keep up! ha ha.
Jason - we should have a dinner date soon, buddy.
thanks so much, Linda and Aysegul (
you win for the nicest comment of the day, t.
hi Molly, hope all's well there! thanks for the kindness.
hey kickpleat! agreed. it was very much the same for me until we had the fresh around.
sorry for the scare, Adrianna!
you are so very welcome, Lindsay.
here's hoping you feel the purchase a sound investment, Erin. it's a workhorse around here.
hello dear Julie! would love to hear your ideas, as always.
thank you Denise!
oh, Rachel. now I want pudding. please report if you try yours with honey.
thank you Y! wholly agree about honey; it's amazing the personality and depth different varietals can bring.
thanks, la domestique.
that would be such fun, Nicole! we'll have to have an ice cream social some time.
see heather? i'm always here to help ... or encourage ice creams!
ive already been planning thanksgiving components and i may have even started thinking about Christmas too...
this is definitely in the running, now.
i love the styling of the last photo. antique spoons are so lovely.
oh my heavens. i want to lick my screen. love that you can see the bits in the ice cream. you got the perfect swirl going on there too!
this looks delicious
Such a lovely ice cream! I love the warm fall flavors in a cold scoop. And so happy to have discovered your blog! Beautiful.
it would take me A LOT of ice cream tasting to be able to describe this treat with the finesse that you do, Tara. Not that I'd complain, it looks incredible, but seriously, I can taste it through your words. Your new bi-line "the food writer that is so good, you don't even have to cook and you know what it tastes like"
I am so pleased to have discovered your site on a drizzly Monday, and more than excited to try that ice cream! Wonderful!
Wow. I am not usually drawn in by sweets, but this is EXACTLY what I want. How did you know???
Wow...I love nutmeg. Must try this!