Of feast and family
Wednesday, September 28, 2011 at 10:21AM 
Here we are, under two-weeks-and-counting until Thanksgiving; my bar none favourite holiday of the year. There's a laundry list of things to do between that day and this, but I've got one thing settled - a secret to stash away in case of emergency on those busy days - and it goes like this: honey and toasted nutmeg ice cream.
It was in between plans of roasts and butter rolls that I started to consider a spiced ice cream. Not for the main event, as there's tradition firmly in place for that - intended instead as a ramp up to those times of feast and family. The theory was a sound one, as, in practice, having a pint of frozen ambrosial goodness sets a humming tone of anticipation for what's to follow.
I like it alone, and I'd like it with an apple cake or a slice of pumpkin pie. In the case of the latter I think the two custards, one frozen and one, well, pie - similarly smooth but contrasting in temperature and heft - would be particularly nice on a shared plate. Or if, say, this ice cream was employed to simultaneously spark the warmth and soothe the sour of that plum crumble I talked about before, that would work too.
Having said that, I don't know if I'd want it in mounded servings. A smallish scoop suits me fine, and a smallish spoon too. There's a reason behind this uncharacteristic moderation; despite the short list of ingredients, this ice cream's taste develops slowly on the palate. It meanders. It slips along on a base of cream, and the combination of honey and nutmeg is carried to a station greater than its beginning.
And on that note, there was a point as I whisked eggs and the cream steeped, that the combined scents of the two mixtures on the counter reminded me, worryingly, of eggnog. Our relationship is tempestuous, that between the Nog and me. It starts out festive and merry but often ends in the overstepping of boundaries and things taken too far.
I'm not ready to rekindle the romance; it is one best saved for the end of the year.
Lucky for me then, that when combined, there's a levelling to the egg and the spice. While the first introduction of this ice cream might be a vague suggestion of yuletide cheer, the actual impression it leaves is altogether different.
Without the boozy undertones of rum or bourbon or brandy, whatever your mix — and I'm not critisicing a boozy undertone, as I am a big fan — but without that alcoholic throatiness, the nutmeg blooms broader; with a tickling heat, yes, and also a higher, flowery, perfumed taste that is in beautiful cooperation with the honey's similar disposition.
(But don't let my particular mood stop the addition of a spirited pour into the mix.)
So there you are, set for Thanksgiving. And October. And Wednesdays.
Honey and toasted nutmeg ice cream
Adapted from Saveur Issue #134.
I have made this ice cream once with egg yolks alone and again with whole eggs. The batch with whole eggs had a clearer, brighter flavour of honey and spice. As one would expect, the egg yolks afforded a silkier custard, which had its own merit.
In the dead of winter, in need of a cold-weather-worthy ice cream and feeling particularly blithe, I might try it with 8 egg yolks for kicks. Go with what works for you.
Ingredients
1 whole nutmeg
1 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream (35%), divided
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup liquid honey
6 egg yolks or 4 whole eggs, see head note
1/8 teaspoon salt
Grate 2 teaspoons of nutmeg into a small skillet. Toast the ground nutmeg over medium heat until aromatic, around 2 minutes. Remove to a bowl and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, combine the milk and 1/2 cup of heavy cream. Add the rest of the (whole) nutmeg to the pot with the milk mixture and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Remove from heat and allow to steep for 10 minutes.
In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks (or whole eggs, if using) with the sugar, honey and salt. Pouring in a thin, steady stream, whisk in the hot milk mixture into the eggs. Tansfer the mixture back to the pan and cook, stirring, until thickened, 8-10 minutes. Pour custard through a fine-meshed sieve into a clean bowl. Stir in the remaining 1 cup heavy cream and toasted nutmeg; cover custard lightly and chill.
Churn in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's direction then transfer to an airtight container and freeze until set.
Makes 1 quart.
Notes:
- The type of honey used will greatly impact the ice cream's flavour. A wildflower honey will be subtle and almost fresh, with the cream coming through, while a more robust buckwheat will be far more prominent.
Reader Comments (48)
not a huge nutmeg fan BUUUUUUUUT your pictures have made me soo hungry & intrigued. Must get over that and will thanks to you!
It looks so creamy, Tara! I have made several ice cream recipes so far but never with whole eggs, only the yolks. I'm intrigued!
nice and easy
I hope you are having a lovely Thanksgiving! I have just made our second pumpkin pie (for our second turkey dinner) and it is wafting maple-y goodness all around the kitchen. I can only imagine how your ice cream would improve it. That's something to look forward to for next year. Happy holidays!
I'm going to try it with my favourite honey- chestnut brought from Tuscany. Must be delicious!
I've admired your beautiful blog for so long. This ice cream is right up my alley. It seems so warm and fragrant!
Oh, how I wish I had had a chance to make ice cream at culinary school. Never mind. I have an ice cream maker at home. Time to play!
Season-less and beautiful. I can see this on berries in the summer and pumpkin pie in the winter. It took me moving from California to Boston (for grad school) to really, ironically, come to appreciate ice cream in the fall/winter. Those East-coasters love their ice cream in the cold weather, so I've started to keep my freezer bowl always chilled in case inspiration strikes anytime of year. Thanks for doing your part :)
I've not yet entered into the realm of home made ice cream. It's always looked like so much work, but this one sounds so tasty I might have to try my hand. And the honey-nutmeg combo is one of my favourite flavours!
Thanks for sharing!
I am new to your site and your photography is breathtakingly amazing. Wow! I really like this recipe you posted, would egg whites work at all? Trying to go a little healthier here.
Oh goodness, this looks so good.
Also, you had me laughing:
"Our relationship is tempestuous, that between the Nog and me.'
Thanks for the chuckle! xox
MMM. That looks so yummy. I have been wanting to learn how to make ice cream for ages now. I will have to do something with this an our recipe for pumpkin butter coffee cake we are writing a blog post about this week. Thanks for the idea!
I have never even dared to try ice cream. It has always for some reason intimidated me... but it doesn't any longer. I am definitely going to give this a shot for the holiday season! Thanks for posting this!
This looks soooo yum...I'm drooling now...^*^
OMG! It looks YUMMMMMM!! Thanks for the recipe! xoxo
http://hellofridaybypaik.blogspot.com/
I guess good things really come in small sizes :) Looks very rich and delicious.
First time on your site. Beautiful pictures and stories. I really liked the style in both :) Will be back for sure!
OK--has anyone made this? I did over the weekend and it did NOT turn out! I'm certain I followed the recipe exactly (made it with four whole eggs) and it was just awful and I was heartbroken. Any words of advice??
Hello Stacey! I am so sorry to hear that the recipe didn't work out for you. I've made it more than once without trouble - can you describe what happened with your batch? I'd love to be able to help.
Thanks for replying, Tara! My problem must have been the nutmeg and the honey. Neither of those flavors were present AT ALL in the finished product. It literally tasted like scrambled egg flavored ice cream. Eesh! I used raw, wildflower honey and whole nutmeg that I toasted just as instructed. I think I'll try again with a different kind of honey and purchase a different nutmeg. Any other thoughts?? S. :)
I'm new to your blog, and as I skim through all your recent posts, I just keep getting suckered in. Again and again! My blog pales compared to yours. Your site is so rustic, sophisticated, minimal, yet it really tells a story and set the right mood. Love your blog :)
I think you missed 2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg - in the ingredients' list, because you write about it in the description.
Fantastic, fresh idea. Do you really recommend it?
hello Nina! If you read the instructions, it indicates that you grate 2 teaspoons worth off of the whole nutmeg (that is later used for steeping). Hope that clears things up!
what lovely vessels! may I ask where they're from?