The sort to swoon
Wednesday, December 15, 2010 at 10:13AM 
About four years ago, or one house and one baby ago to be precise, one of my dearest friends visited from overseas. Amongst the treasures she brought along there was glassine bag full of sweets in rose petal hues. Marshmallows. From Paris.
Through my childhood I liked marshmallows well enough. Out of a package, sometimes fascinatingly elastic, sometimes with a faint leathered quality to their exterior if the bag was left open too long. Parisian marshmallows were a world apart from those. They were a confection in the truest sense; soft sponges, delicately sweet and pleasantly supple. I ate them plain, as they were, plucked from their packaging, pinched gently between two fingers and nibbled, daintily.
If I were the sort to swoon, I would have.
I haven't forgotten my declaration that you all deserve a treat. True to my word, and with that memory in mind, I'm here with marshmallows. They're as close to hers as I can muster, tender in the middle and ethereally fluffy. They seem to defy nature with their suspension of bubbles held in cloud-like stasis.
Marshmallows do have an amiable mystery, since they seem much more complex to make than they actually are. While there is the matter of working with gelatin and a candy thermometer, those aspects are footnotes to the method really, only taking few minutes of consideration.
First you take the gelatin and let it soak in some water to until soft. Boil a sugar syrup on the stove until it reaches 240°F, called the "soft-ball stage" in candy making if you're into that sort of thing, and stir in the now-pliable gelatin. Pull out a stand mixer, whip up egg whites, then (carefully!) pour in the syrup. Leave the machine beat away until the batter is cool, thick and voluminous, then pour it all out into a prepared pan to set for a few hours. Once the timer dings, you turn out the pan, grab a knife, and behold! Marshmallows.
As I believe that in the lifespan of a marshmallow that the highest honour is a blistering, fiery send off, I think it is best to start at the basic. And the basic is beguiling - vanilla. These are exceptionally, pronouncedly vanilla marshmallows. There is that flowered quality of the vanilla bean I think is at its best here, propped up in a way that shows its full breadth of attributes, marvelously positioned halfway between perfume and cream soda.
They can of course, be the subject of variation. Use cold espresso to start the gelatin off, add some cocoa powder and finely-ground espresso beans to the end of beating and you have a caffeinated, speckled version. They can be spiked with peppermint or burnished with ground cinnamon, sploshed with rose water and orange flower water to create the marshmallowed imagining of Turkish Delight - tinged a gentle pink with some food colouring to achieve their felicitous blush.
I imagine round-cheeked cherubs snacking upon those.
To end, while these marshmallows come along by way of my kitchen instead of the City of Light, if you would be so kind as to imagine them in crystalline bags with an elegant black bow and labelled en français, maybe you'll get the a glimpse of effect from those years ago. Fingers crossed you'll think they're swoony too.
Fluffy Vanilla Marshmallows, two ways
The ingredients are fiddled from this recipe from Epicurious, but the method departs from theirs. In this version, the hot sugar syrup is poured directly into the egg whites as they are beaten, as is done with Italian meringue. A note on the egg whites: if you want an all-around marshmallow, good for toasting over a campfire let's say, use 2 egg whites. For a marshmallow destined for hot-cocoa greatness, one that melts evenly but slowly, use 3.
Ingredients
Nonstick cooking spray, for pan
1/2 cup cornstarch
1/2 cup confectioner's sugar
1 cup water, divided
3 packages unflavoured gelatin
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2-3 egg whites, see above
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Spray the bottom and interior sides of a 9x13-inch metal baking pan with cooking spray. Sift together the cornstarch and confectioner's sugar in a small bowl, then dust an even layer of the mixture over the prepared pan, making sure to coat thoroughly. Set aside. Reserve the rest of the cornstarch and confectioner's sugar.
In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over 1/2 cup of the water and allow to sit until softened and all the water is absorbed.
Meanwhile, in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the remaining 1/2 cup water, granulated sugar, corn syrup and salt. Stir using a wooden spoon, over medium low heat, until the sugar has dissolved, around 3-4 minutes. Bring the mixture to the boil over medium heat and cook, without stirring, until it reaches a temperature of 240°F (115°C) on a candy thermometer, around 10-12 minutes. Remove from heat and add the gelatin. Stir until dissolved.
In the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. On medium speed, pour a thin, steady stream of the hot sugar syrup down the side of the bowl into the egg whites (if poured directly onto the beaters, the insanely hot syrup might splash). Slowly increase the speed to high and beat until the batter has nearly tripled in volume and has cooled to room temperature, around 12-15 minutes. Pour in vanilla and beat for about a minute more. Pour the marshmallow into the prepared pan, using an oiled offset spatula to smush into corners and smooth the top. Sift over another generous layer of the reserved cornstarch and confectioner's sugar mixture (you should still have lots left over). Let stand until set, at room temperature and uncovered, around 3 hours.
Onto a large board, sift some more of the cornstarch and confectioner's sugar. Run a thin knife around the edge of the marshmallows to release from the pan then invert onto the dusted work surface. Use an oiled knife or cutter to divide into your desired shapes. Coat these with a sifting of the last of the cornstarch and confectioner's sugar to keep them separate.
Store in an airtight container with parchment paper between layers, for up to one week.
Makes 1 9x13-inch pan.
marshmallow in confection 
Reader Comments (52)
Okay. So you have completely and totally sucked me in. I need to make marshmallows ASAP!
Gorgeous! Marshmallows have become a holiday tradition around here - peppermint for Christmas, for hot cocoa. Cut in shapes and dusted in colored sugar for Easter, to replace the traditional peeps.
I use the same recipe, but with one full cup of powdered sugar and no corn starch (adapted by Deb of SK, not me!). I had tried a Martha Stewart recipe years ago and it was so difficult that it almost convinced me to write off marshmallows completely. So grateful I didn't.
I just finished making the epicurious version to go with jars of hot chocolate mix that I am sending in Christmas packages to loved ones. I had never made marshmallows before (slightly scared of gelatin and corn syrup) but it was really fun. I will definitely make them again. Beautiful photo, too!
looks gorgeous !!! yummy yum yum
beautiful! i die for marshmallows!
I started having homemade marshmallow fantasties just last night. As soon as the holiday crazies are over with, it's so on!
WOW! That looks ammmaaazing!
These look scrumptious!
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Good Christ.
Please have these shipped to my home immediately.
Okay, now I'm thinking s'mores are in my future! I have made marshmallows before, but the recipe I used didn't use egg whites, only gelatin. Does the addition of egg whites change the consistency of the final result?
Just seeing that photo brought back so many memories of campfire marshmallows. I love them torched. Or I should say I "did" because I no longer eat them for gelatin reasons. Because I let my boys have all manner of sweets except marshmallows, they are over-the-top obsessed with them. I'm thinking of attempting an agar agar version and I would definitely add the vanilla.
So funny, I've been thinking about posting a recipe for marshmallows... I just haven't had the time to convert my recipe from weight measures into cups. Oh well, I guess I'll post something else!
I didn't try marshmallows until about I was 14 or so when I first visited the UK. We didn't have marshmallows in Greece, even now you can't find them easily. I don't think I 've ever tried a good quality marshmallow either. Reading your post though and feeling your excitement about these fluffy white things, I can tell that there *must* be some good marshmallows out there. So, I either have to visit France or make this recipe. The latter is easier I think. Thanks for the recipe!
Magda
thanks for sharing the recipe :)
That looks wonderful. I love homemade marshmellows.
i am sorta addicted to making marshmallows, and i'm craving some s'mores right about now!
Ive found that homemade marshmallows are sometimes touch and go... but this recipe (and photos) looks delicious. Cant wait to try it.
Beautifully written as usual. As a vegetarian, could I use agar-agar in this recipe? I share your love of marshmallows and have missed them since becoming veg.
I never understood the mystique of marshmallows until I left the jet-puffed variety for the homemade ones. A completely different experience.
I usually don't use egg whites in mine as I thought I liked the texture better without but your (as always) beautiful prose has me second guessing myself.
Happy Holidays dear friend.
Oh wow I remember those marshmallows so fondly, and that memory brings back a whole slew of other ones.. so now I sit here, while it's early and still dark out, dreaming of Paris and of travelling across the ocean to stand next to a friend at her wedding... Ahhhhhh...
Dare I say that your marshmallow looks even more remarkable? And a caffeinated version to boot? My god woman--that is pure genius!
Ah ha! I thought some marshmallow recipes used egg whites! Now to use up all the whites left over from making pots de creme.
Looks absolutely gorgeous. Can't wait to try this one out.
They look luscious. But if you don't want to make them yourself, take a look at some gourmet marshmallows at plushpuffs.com
We passed right by marshmallow-making this year. Suddenly, I'm having second thoughts.
Perhaps on a cold January night, when the holidays are behind and all of winter, ahead. Yes. Yes, indeed.
Oh the memories. I have to say the marshmellows of my memory are not as fabulous as the one sitting here in this post. I've never tried homemade. I'm off and running now. They look too good to pass up. Your writing transports me...ThanksB:)
I do have a fondness for the packet ones, especially in hot chocolate but ... your lovely, delicate home made ones put the others in the shade! Just perfect.