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Wednesday
Nov182009

An impatient age

I am compelled to begin with a disclaimer on this one.

In full respect to the efforts of the family, friends and educators of my youth, I was a bright enough child; even if the story that follows might lead you to believe otherwise.

When I was less than a teen but over the age of 10, I came upon a curious round object in the storage room of my parents' house. It was about the size of a side plate, with an inscription on its face that was impressive and important in a bold, Old English-style script.

"This is a Round Tuit. Guard it with your life as tuits are hard to come by, especially the round ones. It will help you become a more efficient worker. For years you've heard people say 'I'll get that done, as soon as I get a Round Tuit.'"

Ha, ha. Funny stuff, we all get the joke. Except that I didn't.

Lost in the fanciful curls and swirls of the decorative font, I skimmed over the word "tuit" as "trivet". (This was also an impatient age for me, and I was often scolded for reading quickly rather than attentively.) From then on, I believed from that trivets must be Highly Useful Things. I was puzzled when the precious treasures were tossed carelessly onto counters and shoved into drawers with abandon, or squashed beneath hot pots at the dinner table.

Surely the adults knew that round trivets were a rarity.

Of course at some point I realized my mistake and I continued on with growing up. But what I didn't forget, was the importance of getting a round to it, every once in a while.

This is one of those times.

I adore condensed milk. I love it in baking, or spooned into dark, rich coffee or heavily-spiced tea. I have an unhealthy attachment to the little row of cans that are stashed in my pantry - and oh, don't forget, it can be used to make Dulce de Leche.

And, I must confess, I have been churning Condensed Milk Ice Cream for months, but have kept curiously quiet on the subject. That ends now.

This is shout-it-from-the-rooftops-worthy stuff. It is a churned adaptation of kulfi, the Indian frozen dessert made with condensed milks. Kulfi is densely textured and has a substantial weight on the spoon, but this my friends, this is unimaginably supple, with a deep, rounded creaminess. I imagine that if velvet could be made into ice cream, this is what it would be.

We had this ice cream alongside berries through the summer, and ate it sandwiched between these cookies in immoderate scoops. It's the one I'm keeping on hand to top pies and crisps and crumbles through fall and, in winter I'll skip the cardamom and there will be a shot of espresso involved. Maybe two. In spring rhubarb compote will be just the thing.

Without question, it's worth its weight in tuits. Or trivets.

Condensed Milk Ice Cream
Since condensed milk brands will differ in terms of thickness and sweetness, there is a range for the whipping cream. If yours is on the thinner side, you will want the lower quantity of cream, if thicker, the greater. Without a custard base, the method is blessedly fret-free. In fact, if one was careful, I think you could prepare the base of milks and cream in (gasp!) a microwave.

Ingredients
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
1 14-ounce can evaporated milk
1 fresh vanilla bean
3 green cardamom cloves, bruised but not broken (optional)
A generous pinch of kosher salt
1 to 1 1/2 cups heavy cream

In a medium saucepan, combine the condensed milk and evaporated milk. Spilt the vanilla bean down its length, scraping out the seeds. Add both the seeds and the bean to the saucepan, along with the cardamom pods and salt. Heat over medium-low heat until just under a simmer, stirring often.

Pour the mixture, along with the vanilla and cardamom, into a clean bowl or pitcher. Stir in 1 cup of the heavy cream and taste. It should be very sweet, but not tooth aching. If needed, add up to 1/2 cup more cream. Chill the mixture well, then strain and freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's direction.

Makes about 1 quart.

Reader Comments (36)

OH MY GOSH! This looks delish and I always love your introductions to your recipes. When I saw the photo on flickr, I immediately thought, "kulfi!" and to my surprise, your recipe is an adaptation of it!

Lovely post and I have bookmarked this recipe! :)

November 18, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterKamran Siddiqi

wow, Tara. It sounds so rich and amazing. I would totally eat velvet if it looked like this! Never heard of kulfi and glad to have learned something new.

November 18, 2009 | Unregistered Commentersara

Wow! This recipe sounds so rich and so decadant. I wish I hadn't just used the one can of condensed milk I had on hand. And I love the use of cardamom. It is one of my favorite spices and one that is often overlooked. Thank you for sharing this recipe!

November 18, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAllison

Oh my Tara. This sounds positively decadent!!!

November 18, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAndrea

Such a delicious recipe! I can't wait to get my ice cream maker and give this a try...yum!

November 18, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterNutmeg Nanny

I just discovered your site thanks to Ashley from Not without salt and I find it beautiful. And I've got to try this recipe!

November 18, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMiriam

I need to get a Round Tuit too!
I love that you see no seasonal limits to ice cream. One of the many reasons why I *heart* you.

November 18, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAshley

I would like some iced velvet served with my Thanksgiving desserts please. I wish I had the time to serve this to my guests!

November 18, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterDana

Is there any hope of a mango version?

November 19, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterVicki

Brazilians are absolutely crazy for sweetened condensed milk - several of our desserts here call for the ingredient.
This ice cream is dreamy, Tara! Be sure I'll be trying it soon.

November 19, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterPatricia Scarpin

i, too, adore condensed milk. especially in vietnamese coffee. but your kulfi has inspired me to reach to open a new can.

November 19, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterKMS

Kamran Siddiqi, kulfi is good, good stuff.

sara, the fruit kulfis (especially mango) are gorgeous for a treat in the summertime.

Allison, I love cardamom with vanilla especially, somehow it seems to underscore the creaminess and floral notes of the ice cream.

Thanks, Andrea and Nutmeg Nanny.

Thank you so much for the visit, Miriam. Hope to see you back!

Ashley, I do not like to be confined by the restrictions of a society that believes that ice cream is only for the summer. Free Ice Cream. Ice Cream for all seasons! Start the revolution.

Dana, your guests are truly lucky to be invited to your table - ice cream or not.

Vicki, I do make a mango (and raspberry and strawberry) version. I'll be sure to share those in the future.

Patricia Scarpin, I'd love to hear about those desserts!

KMS, Vietnamese coffee is a weakness of mine. For a frozen version, this makes a mean affogato.

November 19, 2009 | Unregistered Commentertara

This memory is absolutely darling, Tara. Just two days ago, I discovered the sensuous delight of swirling condensed milk into espresso or tea. I’m done for. I’ll make sure to add an ice cream maker to our wedding registry so I may try my hand at your recipe.

November 19, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJennifer

Ha! Ashley led me here too. But there is a restaurant near my house called the Round Tuit. I've never eaten there, but for years, I would drive by, and and my husband and I would say, "What is that Restaurant called? I don't get it!" Finally, we figured it out, but just so you know, you're not alone. Lovely blog- glad to find you.

November 19, 2009 | Unregistered Commenteralana

It looks simply delicious. And what a nice story to accompany. :)

November 19, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAimee

you are adorable!!! i am going to get roud tuit! this looks fab!

November 20, 2009 | Unregistered Commentershutterbean

There's a gelato shop in my neighbourhood that makes kulfi gelato and it's delicious! This however, looks so much more rich and beautiful. Lovely!

November 20, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterkickpleat

Two worlds colliding...deliciously.

November 20, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterCakespy

sounds decadently yummy! I wonder if the addition of coconut milk to the condensed milk would work, or would that be gilding the lily?

November 20, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterCha sen

um seriously?! I LOVE condensed milk...awesome take on sort-of kulfi. Love it (and the site).

November 20, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMegan Gordon

This sounds so rich and delicious, cardamom is something that I've grown to love. I absolutely loved your story, charming. : )

November 20, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterhannah | honey & jam

L.O.V.E. condensed milk. And love ice cream. I can think of a ton of things to use this on...let alone all by itself with a touch of caramel sauce on top. YUM.

November 21, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterBarbara

This looks so wonderful. I wouldn't have thought to use condensed milk in ice cream. I can imagine it's heavenly!

November 21, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterthe ungourmet

For the longest time, I thought that being "gung-ho" about something was a bad thing.

We are talking into my 20s...

yea....

(btw...this ice cream looks awesome. Hot Damn.)

November 21, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterWhitney

Oh my great goodness. Cardamom is already deep in my heart, but condensed milk ice cream? Oh my. November seems like a perfect ice cream month, all of a sudden...
Molly

November 21, 2009 | Unregistered Commentermolly

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