An impatient age
Wednesday, November 18, 2009 at 9:40AM 
I am compelled to begin with a disclaimer on this one.
In full respect to the efforts of the family, friends and educators of my youth, I was a bright enough child; even if the story that follows might lead you to believe otherwise.
When I was less than a teen but over the age of 10, I came upon a curious round object in the storage room of my parents' house. It was about the size of a side plate, with an inscription on its face that was impressive and important in a bold, Old English-style script.
"This is a Round Tuit. Guard it with your life as tuits are hard to come by, especially the round ones. It will help you become a more efficient worker. For years you've heard people say 'I'll get that done, as soon as I get a Round Tuit.'"
Ha, ha. Funny stuff, we all get the joke. Except that I didn't.
Lost in the fanciful curls and swirls of the decorative font, I skimmed over the word "tuit" as "trivet". (This was also an impatient age for me, and I was often scolded for reading quickly rather than attentively.) From then on, I believed from that trivets must be Highly Useful Things. I was puzzled when the precious treasures were tossed carelessly onto counters and shoved into drawers with abandon, or squashed beneath hot pots at the dinner table.
Surely the adults knew that round trivets were a rarity.
Of course at some point I realized my mistake and I continued on with growing up. But what I didn't forget, was the importance of getting a round to it, every once in a while.
This is one of those times.
I adore condensed milk. I love it in baking, or spooned into dark, rich coffee or heavily-spiced tea. I have an unhealthy attachment to the little row of cans that are stashed in my pantry - and oh, don't forget, it can be used to make Dulce de Leche.
And, I must confess, I have been churning Condensed Milk Ice Cream for months, but have kept curiously quiet on the subject. That ends now.
This is shout-it-from-the-rooftops-worthy stuff. It is a churned adaptation of kulfi, the Indian frozen dessert made with condensed milks. Kulfi is densely textured and has a substantial weight on the spoon, but this my friends, this is unimaginably supple, with a deep, rounded creaminess. I imagine that if velvet could be made into ice cream, this is what it would be.
We had this ice cream alongside berries through the summer, and ate it sandwiched between these cookies in immoderate scoops. It's the one I'm keeping on hand to top pies and crisps and crumbles through fall and, in winter I'll skip the cardamom and there will be a shot of espresso involved. Maybe two. In spring rhubarb compote will be just the thing.
Without question, it's worth its weight in tuits. Or trivets.
Condensed Milk Ice Cream
Since condensed milk brands will differ in terms of thickness and sweetness, there is a range for the whipping cream. If yours is on the thinner side, you will want the lower quantity of cream, if thicker, the greater. Without a custard base, the method is blessedly fret-free. In fact, if one was careful, I think you could prepare the base of milks and cream in (gasp!) a microwave.
Ingredients
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
1 14-ounce can evaporated milk
1 fresh vanilla bean
3 green cardamom cloves, bruised but not broken (optional)
A generous pinch of kosher salt
1 to 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
In a medium saucepan, combine the condensed milk and evaporated milk. Spilt the vanilla bean down its length, scraping out the seeds. Add both the seeds and the bean to the saucepan, along with the cardamom pods and salt. Heat over medium-low heat until just under a simmer, stirring often.
Pour the mixture, along with the vanilla and cardamom, into a clean bowl or pitcher. Stir in 1 cup of the heavy cream and taste. It should be very sweet, but not tooth aching. If needed, add up to 1/2 cup more cream. Chill the mixture well, then strain and freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's direction.
Makes about 1 quart.
Reader Comments (36)
This recipe looks great. I'm planning on making it to serve along with my pumpkin pie on Thanksgiving, should I prepare it ahead of time and freeze after churning? Or is it better right from the ice cream maker? Thanks for sharing!
Velvet? Oh my gosh, I so must try this.
you are killing me with this one tara! there goes my baby-weight loss program! :)
Yum yum yum! Looks delicious and full or lovely aromas I love.
Jennifer, thank you. And oh! By the way, you can freeze the mixture into popsicle molds if you are without an ice cream maker, and it will be kulfi.
alana, glad to have you, and thanks for the company with the tuit confusion!
Aimee, thank you.
Thanks so much, shutterbean! Since I know you share my love of waffles, I should tell you that waffles make wonderful ice cream sandwich bases, with a scoop of this wodged in the middle.
kickpleat, I want to visit your neighbourhood.
Thanks Cakespy!
Cha sen, what a delicious idea. I'd be intrigued to try it with coconut milk, and so please report back if you do!
Thanks Megan Gordon!
hannah, cardamom is surprisingly versatile. It is lovely in apple desserts, too.
Barbara, I like the way you think.
the ungourmet, it is a bit of cheat from a custard base, but the condensed and evaporated milks give that substantial feel that eggs usually do.
I sort of love you for sharing that, Whitney. And for using the phrase "hot damn." That too.
molly, so glad to have convinced you.
ellen, I had to reply here because I couldn't locate your email address - I wanted to let you know that the ice cream will have the consistency of soft serve when scooped off the beaters. I would recommend giving it a good couple of hours in the freezer to not only firm up but also for the flavours to fully develop. Happy Thanksgiving!
Julia, hope you enjoy it.
Oh my Aran, your little darling is only days old, I do believe you deserve a bit of ice cream.
La Tartine Gourmande, last week I was swooning over thoughts of your pots de creme and tiramisu, so glad you like my offering.
harcout, thank you for the compliment, but please do not place ads in comments in future.
i love your rendition of kulfi. a beautiful write-up. as always. best wishes, shayma
I adore making homemade ice-cream and this looks fantastic. Love the essay too - so sweet and funny!
Haha...didn't think there were still fans of condensed milk around; it's kinda 'incorrect' among the health-conscious but I so hate skimmed milk. We absolutely can't do without condensed milk for our Indian tea (in Malaysia). And I love kulfi; it's good with some pistachio too.
lovely to find your blog. it's beautiful - the photos and the recipes. i'll be sure to visit again!
wow. the thought of waffles as ice cream sandwiches...you just blew my mind.
What serendipity to come across your blog. And then to read this story deep within when only yesterday my husband was drilling a newly purchased console for our t.v. and gave me the fruit of his labor, a Round Tuit. I had no idea what it was until he told me the story of how precious the Round Tuits are. :)