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Thursday
Oct012009

A swift unencumbered arc

Every year, without fail, there is a certain door in our house that becomes stuck. It's only one door, and it's not irrevocably jammed, only enough to make its presence known. And not for all that long, only a week or two tops, when the combination of heat and humidity comes together in such a way that either the floor heaves or the door swells - we're not exactly sure which.

That particular circumstance occurred in the middle of September this time around, when we had cool mornings but summery afternoons. That week the socks we put on with a shiver before breakfast were discarded with a huff by noon.

Said door got stuck halfway between open and closed, leaving you with the option to either give it a solid hip-check into obedience or turn your body such that you can scoot your way through. Being resistant when it comes to confrontation, I choose the latter approach - meaning that for the last few days I have found myself ambling sideways through the front hall with embarssing regularity.

This morning the door swung open freely, in a swift unencumbered arc. October was a month we'd face head on. Howdy to you. And you too, Autumn.

We had our first dalliance with comely autumn and all of its trappings a few days earlier; last Saturday we went slightly mad with autumnal cliché. There were orchards with the first leaves scattered between rows, and apple picking and cider too. And then an Apple Almond Cake followed soon after. But it was only yesterday that I faced the season squarely.

I made soup. And since the colour will soon be scarce around here I made a soup that was patently green.

Our big, enameled cast iron pot took its place on the stove, squat and welcoming. Zucchini and onions into a bath of olive oil and butter, shallots and garlic arriving at the last minute. The rest is pretty much a call of everybody into the pool, when broccoli joins the party and bubbles away until tender. A leafy tumble of spinach wilts into the soft vegetables, and then its all buzzed until smooth. With austerity most certainly against my nature, a spiky dollop of crème fraîche blended with horseradish was the final flourish.

And if you were to say, smear some of that crème fraîche upon some golden toast soldiers for dipping, I would not bat a lash. In fact, I might just think that you're exactly my kind of person.

Early Fall Soup of Zucchini and Broccoli with Horseradish Crème Fraîche
With some inspiration from Molly. The cream is a variation on this mayonnaise, and it is its sinus-clearing intensity that acts as a foil for the sweet subtlety of the soup. The broccoli should be cut into smallish chunks so that the vegetables only take the briefest amount of time to cook, thereby preserving as much of their colour as possible.

Ingredients for soup
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 pound zucchini, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound broccoli, stems and crowns, cut into chunks
4-5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
Rind from a piece of Parmesan cheese, mine was about 3x2 inches
2 cups baby spinach, lightly packed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the horseradish crème fraîche
1 cup crème fraîche
1 1/2 tablespoons prepared horseradish
2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley
2 teaspoons freshly-squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot melt the butter into the olive oil over medium heat. Add the zucchini and onion and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender but without colour, around 10 minutes. Add the shallots and garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Stir the broccoli through the other vegetables.

Pour in around 4 to 4 1/2 cups of stock, just enough to submerge the vegetables. Tuck in the Parmesan rind. Raise the heat to bring to the boil then reduce to maintain a simmer, leaving partially covered to cook for 10 minutes or until the broccoli is tender.

Meanwhile, stir together the ingredients for the horseradish crème fraîche in a medium bowl. Set aside.

Remove the Parmesan rind. Stir in the spinach and once it's wilted, purée the soup with an immersion blender, adding some of the reserved stock if necessary to achieve your preferred consistency. Check for seasoning and serve with crème fraîche alongside.

Serves 6-8.

Notes:

• Although I have not included specifics, I try to layer flavours here, seasoning with salt and pepper throughout the cooking process (while sautéeing the vegetables, upon adding the stock, and then to finish). It is hard to pinpoint exact amounts, but taste often and season as you go. A light touch is best; you can always add more at the end.

Reader Comments (35)

Okay now that looks just gorgeous.

October 1, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterLauren

Thanks for sharing the recipe! I can't wait to try it!

October 1, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterbaby crib

Wow. Gorgeous post, gorgeous soup.

October 1, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterPatti

Having just discovered your blog yesterday, I am thrilled you would post this JUST when I was saying to myself that I haven't eaten enough zucchini or broccoli this year. MMMm.

October 1, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAdrienne

Your stories become more delightful every week, Tara. Beautiful stuff.

October 1, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterKristin

I just found you today through flickr. I like the simple layout and clean colours in your blog! This is a yummy soup - I would love it as a dip with vegetable sticks or bread!

October 1, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterSunshinemom

Ahh yes, my side door has been jammed all summer long. But sadly, it is not anymore. I guess it is soup season! Love the color on this one!

October 2, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterfresh365

Oooh, the horseradish creme fraiche is brilliant!!! Lovely stuff to welcome soup season.

October 2, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMaggie

My dear, this post makes me chuckle with both familiarity and appreciation. You string words together with such beauty. This recipe appears a major autumnal delight.

October 2, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJennifer

Super combo. Just dipping some fresh French bread in this would be perfect.
Your door story brought a grin of familiarity to my face- from my Michigan days.

October 2, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterBarbara

mmm soup. yes, the door is definitely wide open and welcoming in the soup!

October 2, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterjacqui | happyjackeats

Thank you Lauren, I was really happy with the colour.

baby crib, you're very welcome! I hope you do try it for yourself. (And enjoy it!)

Thanks so much for the kindness, Patti.

Adrienne, it must be kismet. So happy to have you here and hope to see you again.

Thanks Kristin, as a true fan of your writing, that means so much.

Sunshinemom, thanks so much for the visit!

fresh365, glad to know that we're not the only ones with quirky doors in our house.

Maggie, thank you. I felt that the freshness of the soup was a good first step into the season. I'm not ready for truly rich food yet ... soon, though.

Jennifer, you're a gem.

Barbara, you know the way straight to my heart - crusty bread.

I like the thought of that jacqui!

October 2, 2009 | Unregistered Commentertara

Love that "everybody into the pool." Welcome, October!

October 2, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterThe Leftoverist

Great post, one of our doors tents to act the same way also. Great recipe.

October 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAysegul - nysdelight

What a curious door! And how do you do it? How do you manage to write in such a way that it SOUNDS like it's Autumn, without me having to witness it for myself!

October 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterY

I must echo others by telling you how beautifully written this post is. The soup looks delicious - lovely photograph.

if anything in the world could be in front of me to eat right now i would absolutely choose this soup. yummm.

October 3, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterred food colouring

Yum! Zucchini and broccoli are easily two of my favorite veggies. Gorgeous soup and perfect for early Fall1

October 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMaris

Tara, how do you do it? Love the door story and it's perfect segueway into a new season. The soup ain't too shabby either. :)

October 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterDana

Yeah soup season is here again:) Lovely post.

October 4, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterHalf Baked

"Comely autumn and all of its trappings" - LOVE it. The soup looks not half bad either. I do need new ways to get my greens!

October 4, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJulie

Soup! Yes!

October 4, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMiss Kate

Soup season is here! And this soup looks delicious. I love the vivid green and all the different flavors melted together.

Also, I love your writing, especially your word choice. There were a few moments where I read sentences over and over again. Beautiful!

October 4, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterEralda LT

i've been eating soup almost everyday too. will have to try this one!

October 5, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAran

Whoa. Fingers crossed for some zucchini in my CSA box tomorrow!

October 5, 2009 | Unregistered Commentersandwicharchitecture

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