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Friday
Jul032009

Worse things I could do

I have something to say, but I am unsure as to how I should feel about it. Should I be proud? Ashamed? A bit sheepish, maybe?

Luckily, I think we're all friends here, and I can be honest with you. Here goes.

We bought a deep fryer.

There, I said it. It's out in the open. There's no turning back now. We've stepped up from a deep-sided pot on the stove, we're in the big leagues now. We've gone Pro. We have purchased an appliance, a unitasker at that, designed for the sole purpose of deep-frying food. Scandalous!

What is it about the notion of a deep fryer that sends hands clutching for the proverbial pearls? I nary blink an eye at baking cake after cake, or cupcake or cookie, but speak of a deep fat thermometer and I feel as though my ladylike self should swoon at the thought.

I should, but I don't.

Instead, I am giddy. On Canada Day there were donuts. The day after, there were fries. Alas, even as I happily plunged the slivered fingerlings into the depths of the fryer, I could hear the imagined whispers of a hundred judgements.

"Sure, she started with fries. But they were just a gateway."
"Next thing you know there will be churros. Or maybe even beignets."
"From there it is a slippery slope into the hard stuff. Corndogs."
"Mark my words, shel'll be battering Twinkies within a month and buying bulk packs of chicken wings on the sly."
"You know, I wouldn't put it past her."

Not to worry, I can handle my deep-frying. I promise. So what if I get a bit of a thrill when I shake the chip basket? A little golden-fried perfection never hurt anyone. There are worse things I could do.

Now if you will excuse me, I have to get back to my fryer.

Garlic Fries with Mustard and Horseradish Mayonnaise
For the fries, prepare them how you like to - fat, thin, shoestring, chips, whatever (see below for links to recipes). Make enough for the size of your crowd or your appetite. This recipe is for about a standard quantity of fries for 4 people. Any leftover mayonnaise should be refrigerated immediately, and can be used as a sauce, a dip or sandwich spread.

Ingredients
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, or a good squeeze, optional
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
2 teaspoons grainy Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon prepared English mustard
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

Fries (see above)
1-2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4-1/2 teaspoon dried red chili flakes, optional
1/2 cup fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped
Kosher salt to taste

Prepare the mayonnaise first. In a bowl, stir together the first five ingredients. Taste, and adjust for seasoning with kosher salt and freshly-cracked black pepper to taste. If the sauce is to thick, thin with additional lemon juice or some warm water. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavours to mellow and blend.

When the fries are hot and crisp, toss through with the minced garlic, dried red chili flakes (if using) and almost all of the parsley, reserving some for garnish. Season with kosher salt. Tumble the fries out onto a platter, with the mayonnaise alongside. Sprinkle with the reserved chopped parsley.

Recipes for French Fries:
Easier French Fries from Cook's Illustrated, cold oil fried (via their site, requires login). Sticky Crows likes this method, and has some step-by-step photos.
Twice-Cooked French Fries (via Epicurious)
Oven-Baked Fat Chips with Rosemary Salt by Jamie Oliver (via the Food Network)
Definitive Fries (from here, ages ago)

Notes:
• I used the Cook's Illustrated recipe for these, which use a technique also attributed to Joël Robuchon. You start your potatoes in cold oil, turn the heat to medium-high, then leave them be. Once they start turning golden, you stir the fries about a bit to prevent sticking, then cook until crisp. Details and specifics are available in through the links provided. I had feared that the fries would be greasy, poking at them suspiciously now and again, but they were surprisingly not so. According to the accompanying article, this method yields a result with less oil absorption than traditional double-fry methods.

• Homemade mayonnaise is my preference, but if you are at all unsure on the freshness of your eggs, your favourite store-bought brand is more than fine. If using homemade, less lemon juice might be needed, depending on the recipe.

Reader Comments (24)

HI. I love your beautiful yummy blog! I have been meaning to write and let you know I added you to my new food blog sidebar recently & enjoy going to your blog as a daily read. Just wanted to stop by and introduce myself! Have a great day.

July 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMiss A

Oh yum! I am going to use the sauce for potato salad.

July 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAnne Louise Klein

Those fries look delish. There is nothing better than a perfect french fry.

July 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterWhitney

when i was 19, i asked for a deep fryer for christmas. i totally understand what you are going through. AND I SUPPORT YOU ALL THE WAY. :)

I made these fries the day I received the magazine in the mail. They are really terrific; the best I've made or had in a long time. They are something like in-n-out fries on a really good day. They need to be made with yukon golds for best results! They are every bit as good as they look in this wonderful photo!

July 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAnonymous

I want a fryer, but unfortunately I don't want the mess that comes with deep frying stuff :/ Conundrum!

July 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterY

those fries sound amazing and if i had a deep fryer, i would definitely be frying things like crazy!

July 4, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJustine

Mmmmm...Tara, these look divine! I've been battling with the desire to buy a deep fryer, but am afraid I would deep-fry EVERYTHING. You're right though, I have no problem with eating baked goods on a daily basis...

Thank you again for all of your help with the chocolate cupcakes - they were a huge hit!

July 4, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAndrea

I am so happy I discovered your blog. Added to my reader right away! A deep fryer - sinful! But of course, good sinful. :D The fries look so good. I made something similar, but in the oven. They were the best non-fried fries and you couldn't even tell.

July 4, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterThe Purple Foodie

I'm not too keen about deep fat frying - too messy for me, and I'd probably end up with soggy, oily lumps of potato. But I love thickly sliced potato, par-cooked, then roasted in a hot oven with a little oil and a good sprinkle of Tuscan seasoning - delicious and healthy!

July 5, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterCindy W

Miss A, thank you for the kind words and for introducing yourself. Lovely to meet you!

Anne Louise Klein, please report back if you do - I'd love to hear your thoughts. Some parsley or dill might be a fine addition.

Whitney, I could not agree more. A simple, indulgent, pleasure.

jacqui | happyjackeats, I adore you for your all-capped support, and your 19-year-old request for a deep fryer. Did you get one? What did you make? It's nice to have camaraderie in my decent into deep fryery.

Anonymous, I used golden fingerlings as that is what I had on hand, but I will surely try them with Yukons when I find the opportunity. For the sake of comparison, of course. Such an easy way to make them.

Y, the fryer we bought is one with a lid (with a filter and vent), and a dishwasher-safe frying insert and basket. For the fries, it was basically drop in oil, shut lid, turn on. I only had to tend to them once, and there was no splattering or smell. Definitely neater than using a pot of oil - dangerously simple cleanup. I can only imagine the creations you'd come up with with a fryer of your own!

Justine, I'm attempting restraint!

Andrea, you're most welcome. It was fun to chat with you about baked goods - I am so happy to hear that they were well-received.

The Purple Foodie, thanks so much for the kind words. And to you and Cindy W., I will admit, I usually bake our fries - most often Jamie Oliver's recipe that I've included here. But for now and again, the fryer is a treat.

July 5, 2009 | Unregistered Commentertara

I wanted to buy my best friend's husband a deep fryer for his 40th birthday but she wouldn't let me. I was hoping to get some fries like those!

July 5, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterDana

Hilarious post!!! Yes, I don't know that I could ever bring myself to BUY a deep frier, but lord knows I eat my share of fried food without batting an eye. I'd be making frittes every week - and dipping them in mayo is the only way to go:) Good stuff.

July 6, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterQ.

Welcome to the club! There's no shame in deep fat frying, only delightfully addictive french fries, onion rings, tempura... Oh my, I feel the need for french fries so I can try out your sauce.

July 6, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMargie

Mmmmmmm...when I was in Greece, almost every household had a deep fryer. How else would you have fresh, thick potato wedges fried to perfection to go with your eggs in the morning? It was heavenly.

July 6, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterRachel

My husband only added two items to our wedding registry three years ago, and one of them (to my horror) was a deep fryer. Since then, I've made my peace with it. Sometimes donuts and french fries are just too good to skip out on. We maybe use it once a month, if that, but I have to admit I like having it around.

We love it!!! How about trying sweet potato fries next!!? We have a fondness for them! Kristin & Chris Ann

July 8, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterLoveFeast Table

I want one too.

July 9, 2009 | Unregistered Commentertrina

I'm addicted to fries! I don't blame you for buying a deep fryer. But I think if I did that I'd be eating fries every day. I began making my own mayonnaise recently and it's sooo much better than the store-bought stuff. Hellmans is great in pinch, though. Thanks for posting this recipe. I didn't know about this method.

July 10, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterDarina

Haven't heard from you since you bought a deep fryer. Have you died of a heart attack?

July 13, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAnonymous

Dana, you're a good friend for listening, but and even better friend for thinking of the gift in the first place!

Thanks Q., I felt a little risque admitting our purchase, but I feel much better now that I've come clean with all of you. We're not going overboard, yet, but it is nice to know its around. When I name the fryer, THAT'S when we know I have a problem.

Margie, please report back if you do, and thank you for the club membership! I hope we get hats. Or bibs. Or our own dip bowls with a club crest on the side. Happy frying!

Rachel, sign me up!

Nicole (Cooking After Five), you've summed up my feelings perfectly.

LoveFeast Table, consider sweet potatoes next in line. Do you have a favourite recipe?

trina, I'd send you one if I could!

Darina, this method went against everything I thought I knew about frying. But it shows you I didn't know all that much as they were exceptionally crisp and not at all drowned.

Anonymous, I'm sorry that a few unexpectedly-busy days have kept me away. I've not succumbed to a deep-fry burnout yet!

July 13, 2009 | Unregistered Commentertara

Oh god. I've been pondering a deep fryer lately, but I've been panicked about a vision of me five years from now, twenty pounds heavier, licking mustard off of said deep-fried corn dogs. It brings me peace to know you're deep frying and staying sane! Also, I stumbled on your blog a few days ago and adore it. Very much looking forward to reading more.

August 7, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterLesley

Thanks for explaining the details on how you're using your deep fryer. The recipe for garlic fries seems to be easier to prepare than one would think. Good post.

November 2, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterChef Basket

I've just stumbled on your blog, and you are a wonderful writer, loving your posts.

July 18, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterJaney

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