All the small things
Friday, June 8, 2012 at 11:21AM Hello, hello! There have been quite the days here, and while I'm sorry to say I don't have a proper recipe to pass along, there are stories to tell, all the small things that filled the hours in between our last conversation and now. For the record though, I've been making a lot of radish sandwiches lately and, in case that's your thing, I'll take a moment to tell you about them.
Fergus Henderson, in a favourite article from Bon Appétit (seriously, the words, the photographs, the menu, everything is bang-on great, and it's where you'll find the recipe for this showstopper of an ice cream), suggests serving radishes whole, with the classic accompaniment of sweet butter and crunchy flakes of sea salt. That's a no-brainer, everyone knows that'll be delicious. What makes the suggestion smart is that he tucks the radish greens aside to dress with a Dijon vinaigrette — it's a peppery and pungent combination, the sort that catches and tingles at the edge of your mouth.
I've taken his idea and put it into a sandwich, as afternoons right now are story book made for picnics. I fancy up some butter with grainy Dijon and lemon zest, then smear it across lightly-toasted pumpernickel. The radish greens get torn into a bowl with a bit of olive oil, juice from that lemon, Maldon salt and cracked blacked pepper. Sliced radish goes on top of the buttered toast, then the salad, and then another toast. Along with my recent fondness for avocado toasts, which I'll get to momentarily, radish sandwiches are one of the quickest, nicest routes between hungry and lunch that I know of.
On to that newsy, chatty stuff.
One day in late May, we lit up sparklers for no better reason than the fact that the evening was warm and the grass green, and that sparklers are the best of summer's magic. In the softness of that indigo hour, the frizzling trails lit up smiling faces, and sparks flew and burst like the laughter that accompanied them. It was celebration of everything, yet nothing in particular, and we've still got some sparklers left and I want to do it again.
Something that deserves a celebration of its own is an announcement that's not mine, but belongs to some people who I think are pretty special. I've talked about my friend Nikole before, more than once, actually. She and I first began really talking around the time her father made a baby spoon for my son William — a lad who is turning 4 years old in a few days, so if you do the math you'll find we've had some years of cakes and conversation between us. She and I are sometimes collaborators, often with the exceptional talents of Michael Graydon to boost up our own, and those projects represent some of the work of which I'm the most proud.
Nikole and her father Lance are the pair behind Herriott Grace. You've surely heard of their shop before; it's a heartfelt effort between those two. They've got a great story behind all that lovely and, lucky us, they have decided to share their thoughts and history in a new endeavour. They've put themselves on film, in association with John Cullen and Industry Films, and resulting portrait is breathtaking.
Congratulations, NH + LH, and to all involved. xo
Here's the biggie. I snuck away for a few days and made my way down to New York City. It was a brilliant, overwhelming trip, and I'm endlessly thankful to the dear, dearest friend with whom I shared it.
We walked bridges, navigated subways, and chatted up taxi drivers. We took the train out of town and I sat at a table I best remember in a snapshot taken when I was maybe five years old. We went to a party that filled up a room with admirable folks, and I wish I could have spent days in their midst. We toasted the city with cookies, and had sandwiches at Saltie for lunch. We poked around Union Square Market with fine company, and sat in the most charming bakery I've ever seen, with an equally charming (and talented, and funny) friend. There were chocolate buns as part of the deal. We people watched at Café Gitane and I became obsessed with their avocado toast. How can something so simple be so good? I've made it twice in the last week.
We sat in a restaurant on the edge of Central Park, just before a storm. We were served pickled strawberries on fresh mozzarella, and tiny sips of watercress soup. We cooed over crispy rice cakes underneath tender scallops. We blatantly eavesdropped on conversations, listening to mothers talk the serious business of the weddings of their children. We politely spied on a group of women catching up after years apart, each of them in cocktail dresses with the baubles and rings to match. And everyone heard the man who announced his presence in the room with an order for service; he strode in like he ruled the world. All of us could be his court.
When my friend and I walked outside, the wind had picked up, and we looked at a skyline dramatic against the clouds.
In the early hours of one morning we made our way to Grand Central Station. It was grey and pale out, the streets slicked shiny by a fine, misting rain. We snuck into the building as though it were a secret. Without the crowds, in that faint light, we stood beneath the turquoise arc of the painted heavens above, and it was like a scene from about a million movies. The irresistible wonder of place, the undeniable awe, saved it from cliché — we were left alone with the quiet potential in the space around us, the weight of what had been before.
The chandeliers shone like sequined planets. And maybe we laughed at ourselves.
I came back full of ideas, and full of reasons to be grateful. We got to meet so many inspiring individuals, it's hard to know where to begin. I'll tell you this, yesterday I made a vinegar-kicked strawberry conserve with that one meal in mind. I look forward to sharing it all with you.
Hip, hip for the weekend, for being home, for new lessons and old reminders. Let's talk soon.
The top two photos were taken with my camera, the rest were taken with my phone, using Instagram.
Reader Comments (21)
Beautiful post as always Tara - can't wait to hear more about your trip, glad you had a wonderful time! xx
Gorgeous photos. I can't wait to make it to Momofuku Milk Bar one of these days.
how i loved this journey you just took me on, so happy and beautiful. i found myself looking around the room as if i was walking in the streets and sitting at a cafe with you. that is the magic of your writing, we are never just at the computer when reading you.
now radishes, how i love them i am growing several varieties in my garden. i eat them plain with a sharp mustard, the hotter the radish, the more i eat. that sandwich sounds divine, i will have to remember it when i can indulge in a piece of bread but for now i will start using my radish green that were previously being tossed to the chickens.
thank you tara
My heart skipped a beat at the Milkbar pic. I could totally live the rest of my life in bliss feasting on all their goodies!
As I read this I am surrounded by baskets of freshly picked strawberries that I just brought home. I have mozzarella in the fridge. Now I just need to figure out how to make the right kind of strawberry pickle. Thanks for the idea and I look forward to your recipe!
A lovely tale, as usual. I, too, recently went to New York. Did you make it to Momofuku's Ma Peche? It might have been one of the best meals I've eaten, and the atmosphere had a lot to offer. They had a mini Milkbar upstairs as well, where I had a chance to try those famous compost cookies. It sounds like you managed to get around to the cafes a bit more than me though. Glad for it, as I can simply live vicariously through your stories.
Here's to utterly inspiring trips with good friends and yummy food! Glad to hear it went so well.. As for radishes, I so want to love them and I keep trying, I really do.. I guess I'll have to try it your way next time ;)
Wow! What an adventure. And such beautiful writing, I felt like I was transported to all these places I have never been. Thank you for my Saturday morning virtual holiday.
Great photos!
you should come back. i hate that i wasn't here. ill keep the beer cold, though. so drop in whenever.
Beautiful post, really enjoyed reading it. I know of the bon appetite article that you mention and I feel the same way about it that you do.
You make me want to go to New York with you!
Or anywhere, really. I want to slip into empty buildings like a secret, and giggle.
xox
Sounds like an amazing trip!
I have a very unhealthy addiction with Cafe' Gitane's avocado toast....it's just soooo good!
avocado and radish toasts have my heart, a regular meal around these parts. I love the addition of cumin as well to avocado ;) be sure to try. I am also going to try dressing the radish greens, brillant idea I must say. I made a pesto from them once with a mixture of other herbs. No waste. It was lovely to meet you. xn
Love the story and pictures of New York. Especially since I'm planning a trip for this August. I've been before, but this is my first NYC trip alone and I can't wait!
Oh that avocado toast! A few years ago I was lucky enough to stay at the Jane which meant that every morning I would roll out of bed, throw on something fashionably wrinkly, and go down to Cafe Gitane for their avocado toast and maybe some baked eggs. How can something so simple be so perfect? Just like the radish sandwich you described. I'm certain that I will soon become hooked on that too (I actually even made avocado toast for lunch before reading this post).
Happy summer and happy sparklers!
Cool photos and it really shows an amazing experience you got there. :)
There's no better city to eat your way around. I remember that Fergus Henderson article and I love your interpretation of the radish dish. Such a nice crunchy sandwich for the summer months.
Agreed! The avocado toast is the best at Cafe Gitane. It amazes me everytime!
Seems like you really draw your inspiration from all sorts of dishes. Thanks for sharing your ideas.