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Tuesday
Mar222011

A familiar sense of ease

golden

These scones, these knobby specimens far removed from any thought of dainty, came to be through the generosity of an aunt by way of my parents. It started with their cranberries.

My folks had returned home from a recent trip and, not ones to come back empty handed, I was handed a bag of dried cranberries. They'd been to British Columbia, they'd seen my aunt and uncle, who, I'm told, have these local cranberries with their breakfast most mornings. The berries were large and not particularly dry; less like raisins and more like large, flattened rounds, slightly cupped. The first comparison that came to mind was a berry version of orecchiette, the concave pasta with a fingertip-sized indent, but imagine them bright crimson and  made of fruit. These were were plump and full of juice, and as they were only barely sweetened, the tart, lip twisting sharpness of the cranberry remained. 

I ate a handful on the spot. Benjamin did too. 

IMG_18632

Then Mum and I got talking and we settled on making scones. Scones aren't new. Scones aren't innovative. Or trendy. Scones are a soft spot for me though, and my Dad and Mum too. Scones are herehere and here already. And so, if I start nattering on about scones, you'll most likely know what I'm going to say because we've talked scones before - about their tender substance, the intricacies of their crumb - but there's a familiar sense of ease in that, in those known phrases and anticipated tastes. 

I will say, at their most rustic as these are, scones involve straightforward skills and little more. Bring together your flours; a mix of flours here to bring a subtle interest, but nothing too challenging for a Sunday morning. Cut butter into that flour with knives or fingertips, then add the buttermilk with the most indolent of stirring - lumps are fine, and long as the flour is pretty much dampened and beginning to clump together. Bring in the cranberries and nuts with a few turns of the spoon.

If even that level of industry feels monumental, and I don't blame you as this is the route I took, use a stand mixer instead. On its lowest setting the mixer will gently distribute the butter and incorporate the buttermilk; freeing you to sip your coffee leisurely, with no greater task than occasional peek into the bowl to make sure things are progressing nicely.

Either way, the ramshackle dough gets tipped out onto a board, kneaded briefly and patted together into rough and tumble disks. Slice the rounds into triangles and they're ready to bake.

For those looking for extra credit, stir together a spoonful of sugar with the same amount of fresh lemon juice and, there, you've made a syrupy glaze to brush atop the par-baked scones. In the oven, this scant gilding will go from sticky to glistening, seeping in some cracks but mostly giving the scone's surface a crystalline makeover. It's an edge of sugared tang before the nutty, mellow wheaten sweetness of the crumb beneath. It's not necessary, but it's a nice bit of fuss.

this one was mine

I made these the morning after our visit with Mum and Dad, in the sober quietness of the cool, blue hours before light touches the windowsill. That muted glow cast by the day's beginning felt the natural companion to a scone that was homey, reassuring. 

A feeling not unlike a good conversation with those you missed, after a time apart.

 

*******

 

There's a pair of links to share today. First, a heartfelt thank you to Babble.com for selecting this site as one of their Top 100 Mom Food Blogs for 2011. It is an honour to be in such company.

And my friend Jess wrote this poignant post on her site, Sweet Amandine. It's a special one. She's got a restrained honesty as she figures out "what feels right" for right now. I thought I'd point you in her direction as I think it's not one to miss.

A happy day to you all.

 

******* 

 

Mixed Flour Buttermilk Scones with Cranberries and Almonds
Our dried cranberries were markedly less sweet than the raisin-like ones sold in many grocery stores. Using the latter style might warrant reducing the granulated sugar to a 1/3 cup. With inspiration from the Buttermilk Scones from Susan Fenniger and Mary Sue Milliken.


Ingredients

For the scones
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup whole wheat flour or oat flour, see note
¼ cup flaxseed meal
½ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
Finely grated zest from one lemon
¾ cup (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small dice
1 cup dried sweetened cranberries, see headnote
3/4 cup flaked almonds, toasted and then chopped
1 cup well-shaken buttermilk, plus more if needed

For glaze (optional)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

To make the glaze, stir together the sugar and lemon juice in a small bowl. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Use parchment paper to line a standard baking sheet and set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, combine the flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and lemon zest. On the machine's lowest setting, cut in the chilled butter until the mixture resembles course meal. The butter should be in small pieces approximately the size of peas. Mix in the cranberries and almonds. 

With the machine still on low, slowly pour the buttermilk into the flour and butter mixture in a thin stream, stirring until just combined. Use only as much buttermilk as needed to bring the dough together - don’t worry if you don’t use it all, or if you need to add a tablespoon or more. Small bits of butter should still be visible, but almost all the flour should be incorporated. 

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Working quickly, gently knead the dough, folding and pressing gently until it just holds together. Divide the dough into two, and shape each ball of dough into a 6-inch round about 1-inch thick. Cut each round into six wedges, and place on the prepared baking sheet. 

Bake scones in the preheated oven for about 12 minutes, then carefully pull them out and brush the top of each lightly with the glaze, if using. Return the scones to the oven and continue to bake until the the tops are lightly golden and the cut sides look flaky and dry, around 5-8 minutes more. When fully cooked, the scones should feel light for their size and sound almost hollow when tapped underneath. 

Cool on a wire rack for at least 5 minutes. Best served warm the day they are made, but can be toasted or rewarmed in a low oven. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.

Makes 12 medium scones.

 

Notes:

  • In lieu of whole wheat flour, toasted oat flour also works quite well. To make your own, spread 3/4 cup of rolled oats on a baking sheet and bake in a 375°F oven until lightly golden, stirring occassionaly, around 7 minutes. Allow to cool, then grind in a food processor into fine meal.
  • I would like to try these using whole wheat pastry flour and 1/2 cup of butter. I'll be sure to report back.
  • This recipe can, of course, be done by hand using a pastry cutter or a pair of knives and a spoon. I've also had great success using a food processor for scones; the method for both is here.

 

Reader Comments (31)

I heart scones Tara. Especially since there is not much kneading required for it! For us its a treat going with the family to the local british tea rooms. Served with clotted cream & jam and a warm cup of tea in tow. Nothing could be better. Love the addition of cranberries in your post. Perfect sweet & tart flavours running through it. Gorgeous!

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterMaunika

Tara, this is a gorgeous post and the photos are so stunning! I want a big bite from one of your scones. I think, I need to bake them. :)

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterZita

The photo of your scones are crushing me (in a good way) - so beautiful. I love scones and only now realize that it's been way too long since I've made a batch. And I'd love to try your recipe - with the flaxseed meal, ww pastry flour and less butter. And I'm now wondering where I can find a bag of these precious dried cranberries since I'm in Vancouver!

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered Commenterkickpleat

Scones are timeless. Even though I use the food processor to make the dough, which makes my mom recoil in horror. (I have warm hands! I'm better off touching my pastry dough as little as possible.)

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterRachel (heart of light)

Really nice. I really want nothing more than to sit around your table, eat these, drink too much coffee, and be gossipy.

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterJason Hudson Dot Com

these look amazing. congrats again on the Babble list -- so awesome and deserved.

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered Commenterjustcooknyc

Scone have a very soft spot in my heart. My Grandma prided herself and her scone recipe. When I miss her I go in the kitchen and make ginger scones and life seems to fall back into place. Thanks for the recipe!

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterMichelle

Been following your blog for a while. Thought I'd say hi and that I can't wait to try this with oat flour as you suggested! Yum!

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterRuth

The epitome of comfort food. Love wedge scones, too! Yum.

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterJulie

That looks wonderful.

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterJoy

Wow, I haven't baked scones in almost three years I think. Thanks for this post, I'm going to have to put this on my to-do list! These sound delicious, and I'm totally with you on the stand mixer usage... that's always my route too :)

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterSarah

Those are so beautiful! I have a soft spot for scones as well... a picky soft spot! I've been meaning to try making them with coconut oil as the fat, instead of butter; have you ever used it? I've seen it produce really similar results in other recipes before.

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterSarah

I've been wandering from site to site lately, discovering new food blogs, and I came upon yours. Looks awesome. I love scones and never get tired of them. I would happily read about a new scone variation/flavor combo every day. :).

March 22, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterLaura

Hi everybody! Let's hear it for scones, shall we?

To Charles, who commented that this recipe is similar to one from Epicurious; I appreciate the feedback! While the flour and butter ratio is close, it's not actually the same - in baking, such ratios are often standard for the reason that they work, and this is the same basic ratio from Milliken and Fenniger. However, the sugar, leavening agents, liquids all differ, baking temperature and times differ, making this a very different recipe.

I see they use a lemon glaze too, but on my end that's an old favourite trick I picked up from Ina Garten's Lemon Cake and Nigella Lawson's Quadruple Chocolate cake (I've used similar glazes in the past, as seen in archives).

Thank you for the note, lemon + cranberry + scone is surely classic for a reason. I appreciate where you're coming from and I think we all want to keep up the correct attribution in recipes these days. I'm sorry I cannot write you directly without an email address, all the best to you.

March 23, 2011 | Registered Commentertara o'brady

These look wonderful. I think I'm leaning towards doing this with orange zest instead of lemon zest. Something about that combination is just singing to me this morning.

March 23, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterMolly

Yum :) Love scones

March 23, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterNicole Franzen

Hi there! I love your blog so much. The recipes always inspire me. For some reason lately I have been itching to make scones but haven't done it, and after reading this post I know it's the next thing I need to bake!

March 23, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterAllison

after a few tries at scones, i have yet to get a perfect one likes yours. I think in my careless measuring I add too much liquid, which yields me more of a muffin-ish thing. I hope to try these and follow your directions closely, they are perfect!

March 23, 2011 | Unregistered Commentersara

Such a sweet post Tara. I feel similarly about scones, and have featured several myself on Bella Eats. In fact, I have one brewing in my head that I plan to experiment with very, very soon. And also, I loved Jess' post. :) You two are favorites of mine. xo.

March 24, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterAndrea [bella eats]

I just love scones that are made with buttermilk.

Thank you so much for such a lovely post and recipe!

mmm..these look so very tasty. i love scones and i especially like the mixture of flours you've used here. can't wait to try them out!:)

March 26, 2011 | Unregistered Commenteramanda@seegirlcook

I don't need innovative or trendy, but I do need writing like yours and a good scone recipe to remind me of what is important. Ages ago I made your pumpkin scones and shared them with my son's teachers. They are some of the best scones I have ever had. Thank you, as always!

March 26, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterClarice

I do not know why, but I never bake scones - shame on me! These are so beautifully golden and look delicious, Tara. Perfect!

March 27, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterPatricia Scarpin

I adore scones, whether sweet or savoury! Your styling makes them particularly irresistible! I want to make a fresh batch now! Lol!

March 27, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterJen Laceda

First and foremost, I love your blog! I'm thrilled I stumbled upon it today! Secondly, I've never made scones before. They seem a lot easier than I thought it would be based on your recipe. This looks wonderful and your photography is beautiful!

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