As our own
Thursday, January 20, 2011 at 8:46AM 
Heretical as it is, I will make the bold statement that, at times, I find hot chocolates and cocoas to be unthrillingly blah.
Blah, of course, being a highly-technical term denoting boring, dull, unexciting, humdrum. In my head I hear that despondent wah-waaaaah slide of a trombone that's used in cartoons when the last balloon is popped right before the party, or the scoop of ice cream falls off the cone with a splat on the pavement, and the hero looks at the camera, crestfallen.
That's what hot chocolate can be like sometimes.
On one end of the spectrum they sip heavily, and dare I say it cloyingly, as if simply a chocolate bar melted down. Which is not really an insult per se, because that can be a glorious thing, but mine is only a once in a while desire to experience that full hit.
On the far end from that, there's hot cocoa. I associate it with single-serve packets (with nubs of dehydrated marshmallows included), stirred unceremoniously with hot water, thin and wan - without much going for it beyond a colour suggestive of beige and brown and brick mixed together.
Before a step further, there should be an admission that I've a deep-rooted fidelity to that stuff. It is, to me, the flavour of winter class trips in elementary school - of the ice rink, and even more so, the provincial park we'd often visit. I am without notion of what we'd do there in the cold months, without recollection of much save for the big white room with grand, mullioned windows, where, after we'd do whatever it was we'd been doing, the gaggle of us would trundle in with snow pants and hats and sodden scarves, set our damp mitts to dry on the radiators, then each crisscross our chilled fingers around a styrofoam cup of hot cocoa. We slurped it up greedily and I wouldn't change a thing about the memory.
That said, that's not the hot chocolate we're drinking these days. For us, we turn to this recipe. It's become our usual brew; the hot chocolate of our thermos this winter, the one that steamed from mugs on the first Snow Day of Benjamin's school career (a red-letter day, by all accounts), the one upon which we float our marshmallows. It's safe to say that we're set on it as our own.
Its complexity sneaks past you, I can't say imperceptibly because it is noticeable or I couldn't be talking about it, but it is in a manner that you might not register at first - it tastes of chocolate and more. There's the bitter of coffee that calls attention to the darkness in chocolate, the accent of cinnamon that sets them both off, all smoothed out by the subtlety of cocoa.
Though this may look a fussy production, rest assured that while the upmarket neighbour to a mix, it only requires the slightest bit more by way of effort. There is a sole idiosyncrasy to the method, one I came upon accidentally when I walked away from the stove for longer than I should have, and it's a ritual I've since adopted as rule. It is most likely in direct violation of cookery rules and I'll make no apology for that.
You're going to boil the chocolate.
Well, the chocolate and cream and all the rest of it. Just for a minute or two, the bubbles shouldn't be furious. And stir conscientiously as it's happening please. In boiling, you give the mixture the opportunity to concentrate and thicken, so that the final texture is in between that of hot cocoa and drinkable chocolate. It coats the throat thinly, silkily. I'll wager seductively, if we want to go that far.
No trombones about it.
Our Hot Chocolate
As you'll see from the list of ingredients there are opportunities to fidget this recipe to meet your tastes. I'm happy with the lesser amount of sugar and a bittersweet chocolate, but others might want a gentler, rounder drink. Go with what works for you.
Ingredients
3-4 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons best-quality cocoa powder
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 3/4 cups milk
1/4 cup 12% cream (single, pouring, half and half)
2 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
In a medium saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cocoa, espresso powder and cinnamon. Pour in a little of the milk and whisk until smooth. Pour in the rest of the milk, then the cream, stirring until combined. Add the chopped chocolate and heat until the mixture comes just under a simmer.
Stirring constantly as to not scorch, maintain the heat at a simmer and cook until the chocolate thickens slightly, around 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat, stirring now and again as it will continue to thicken as it stands, and cool to your desired temperature.
Makes just over 2 cups, serving four daintily, if you can show such restraint.
Notes:
- If cinnamon is not your thing, scrape in the seeds from an inch of fresh vanilla bean, or 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract. A pinch of a nice sea salt can also do wonders. The same can be said for cayenne.
chocolate, hot chocolate in beverage 
Reader Comments (33)
I share your allegiance to that thin hot cocoa end of the spectrum, Tara. I suspect it's something many Minnesotans and Canadians have in common. It is absolutely the drink of ice rinks. This recipe looks wonderful---I'm going to try it this weekend.
How decadent does that look? I too am rarely tempted by your average, run of the mill hot chocolate, and would opt for a plain ole filter coffee most days if I had the choice. However, I think this recipe could change my mind. I dunno, I might have to try it today with the cookies and cream brownies I've just taken out of the oven. ;) Choco overload? I think not. Thanks for the post!
This looks faaabulous, Tara. I love what coffee does to chocolate, and throw in cinnamon...heaven. But I have to ask: Do you see an effect on the kids from the caffeine? Between the coffee and the cocoa/chocolate, I suspect my 4yo would be pinging around the apartment for hours afterward.
YUM.
I like a little spicy Mexican spice mix with my chocolate, though usually hidden in my banana bread or in chili . Mm.
Love the fancy teacup.
And the thought of your boys jacked on chocolate and espresso on a school day.
Really, really enjoyed reading this. I wish more bloggers crafted their posts the way you do. Personally, I've never been a huge fan of hot chocolate, but I'm coming around. Mom thought it was akin to junk food so I don't have the childhood memories, and the store bought stuff is so… meh. When we visit Chicago though, a trip to Rick Bayless's Xoco is a must for a warm mug of hot chocolate (spiked with Mexican cinnamon) and a crunchy, sweet Churro for dipping.
oh yeah! that looks delicious! but i must object to the use of the term "cocoa" when referring to those disgusting single serve packets. they are usually called hot chocolate but have precious little to do with chocolate and even less with cocoa. real cocoa does not come in single serve packets and can be rich, dark and flavourful when made with milk, the way nature intended. just my little two cents' worth.
i was just gifted some homemade peppermint marshmallows, and was thinking i'd have to come up with a remarkable hot chocolate to sip while i nibble on them. this will definitely work! i truly enjoy reading your blog, and i'm looking forward to exploring your recipes.
Mmm, that looks delicious Tara, and something we will not be serving daintily around here. :)
I've been avoiding hot chocolate for months - I went to Paris, where they do hot chocolate right (every. single. time.), and cannot bring myself to mix those boring pre-mixed packets. I made this recipe for my boyfriend this morning, and we both agreed one on thing: it is something that could easily have been served in a Parisian cafe. Absolutely delicious! Thank you.
One of my favorite hot chocolate recipes is spiked with peppermint extract and topped with fresh whipped cream. Your version sounds delicious too--I'll have to try it soon.
The cocoa looks wonderful...but I had to stop by because you have my mom's china... that I have now... I think it's just lovely! Funny thing, if you leave chocolate over night it plumps up...even if you make it will water.. how's that for bizarre! Nice dropping by!
I love the teacup. :)
Glorious, glorious hot chocolate. I love the addtion of the coffee. I think in our house it might be enough for 2, but not 4. We're a bit like that.
i think i snorted at the trombone part!! love that description....and love this recipe!
Mmmmmmm ... I have to admit that my absolute favorite hot chocolate is the kind you get out a vending machine. Something magical about a machine being able to produce a hot beverage that I still can't get over. I love watching the cup tumble down the chute and then fill with hot chocolate.
I was just in the swanky gelateria that's below my building, where they sell Italian style hot chocolate . . . and this exact idea passed through my mind. Why can't there be something between that gross Nestle packet stuff and what tastes & feels like melted chocolate bars? It seems as though you've done it! And I love the addition of espresso powder.
I have a go-to homemade hot chocolate recipe I use but this looks quite good too so it's already bookmarked for when I want a change. Thank you for sharing!
No trombones about it! You rock.
Hello there. I've recently stumbled upon your blog and really enjoy it. I was given a 'Stylish Blogger Award' where I had to say seven things about me and share fifteen new blogs I like. Your blog is one that I have linked. You can take a look if you like and participate in the award but of course, you don't have to. Have a wonderful day and here's the link:
http://ciderandfaun.blogspot.com/2011/01/little-stylish-award-for-me-thanks.html
What a coincidence, just this week I have tried 2 different hot chocolate recipes for my daughter, both involving melted dark-chocolate. The end result was that she preferred the one that had only milk, not any cream, but she still likes hot cocoa better. We just make it from cocoa powder, sugar and milk. I may still give your recipe a try, maybe it will be the "one"!
A hit of Cayenne and I am with you!
i don't care much for cocoa, but your writing makes me want it. THAT is how good you are.
We've similarly abandoned those beloved-packets (entirely my nostalgia), and turned to our own, which is nothing more than standby batch of standard ganache (made with deep, dark 70% cocoa + heavy cream), stirred in to scalding hot milk. Fantastically good, scalable per the chocolate threshold (I can't take much; others can take it with the spoon standing up), and done in the space of milk-scalding time.
This reminded me one of my favourite 'perk me up' drink. 100% pure cacao melted into very strong fresh espresso with a little dash of milk and sprinkle of chilli powder. Gorgeous!
I will never forget my first sip of "real" hot chocolate. I was a junior in college, studying in Paris and visiting my boyfriend in Florence. The weather was unseasonably cold and I hadn't brought the right clothes. I shivered for four days. Then he took me to his favorite spot and I had that thick real chocolate and it was the best thing I had ever tasted. I haven't had a good cup since. My kids love the idea of it, but when we order it at a coffee shop they never finish it. Good palates, those boys. I'm sure they would love your cup.