A rhubarb story
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 8:31AM 
Unless I'm forgetting a pivotal rhubarb-related incident from the wilds of my childhood, I do not hold any nostalgia-based predilection for it. Not an ounce, not an iota.
I can't recall my first taste of rhubarb. I can't even tell you, in a tone with longing evident, of the time I had a certain dish that changed my life forever because of its rhubarbed glory.
I learned to cook rhubarb because those I love the most like it very much. A boringly straightforward reason, I know.
It is not for lack of want, because I do believe that everyone should have a rhubarb story. And if I'm being my most upfront self, I should admit it was partly this shortcoming of my storytelling that had me quiet the last few days. You see, I wanted to talk about rhubarb, and the rhubarb syrup that is essential to my new favourite drink, but couldn't decide upon where to begin.
But now I do. The other day I was someone's backyard to celebrate a family birthday. There were ladies in broad sun hats and floral-print dresses. Children, including my own, ran barefoot in determined pursuit of butterflies. There were stories scored by that that specific laughter synonymous with family; familiar, teasing and affectionate.
We walked among flowers in bloom and those just beginning. I walked with Benjamin across soft grass, knelt down to pull back a parasol of leaves to reveal slender stalks of green turned blush. "It's Strawberry Rhubarb," I was told by his Great Grandfather. "That plant has been in our family forever."
You can't beat that.
I hardly would believe this peaceful place smack in middle of a city, at the height of the heat of a hot, hot June day, could exist so perfectly sweetly had I not been there myself. An afternoon when ticks of the clock matched the imagined click of a shutter, each moment a worthy capture and keeping.
That, right there, was my rhubarb moment. It's the story that I'll stick with.
This syrup made its way on the scene earlier than all of that. I made it over a week prior, and have been sipping it steadily in drinks. So steadily, that I've become mildly addicted to it. Muddled with mint, then lightened with sparkling water, it is suggestive of cream soda with a heady, rounded vanilla sweetness, but herbal and sour at the same time.
We're almost out, I'm sorry to say. In happy news, I've just had word that some more rhubarb, from that very garden I mentioned, has been picked and is on its waiting for us. My heart, feet and greedy appetite skipped at that.
If you try this, I think yours might too. Happy summer, friends.
Rhubarb Syrup
A tweaked version of a Nigella Lawson method. I like my finished syrup to have the approximate consistency of maple syrup. Depending on the rhubarb used and your own tastes, it might be necessary to further reduce the liquid in a saucepan on the stove (after the fruit has been sieved out).
Ingredients
A generous 2 pounds (1 kilogram) rhubarb, cleaned and trimmed
3/4 to 1 cup caster sugar
1 fresh vanilla bean, split
Juice from half a lime, optional
Preheat an oven to 375°F (190 °C).
Cut the rhubarb into chunks, mine were about 2-inches in length. Skinny stalks can be a bit longer, fat ones can be more stout - you want everything to cook in reasonably similar time.
Pour the 3/4 cup of the sugar into a large roasting pan or ovenproof casserole. Scrape the seeds out of the vanilla bean with the dull side of a knife and drop them into the sugar. Add the bean too. Using your hands, rub the vanilla seeds and pod into the sugar, breaking up clumps of seeds as you go. Once thoroughly mixed, add the rhubarb and toss to coat.
Cover the dish with aluminum foil and roast for 35-45 minutes until the rhubarb is soft when pierced with the tip of a knife, but not falling to mush. Remove the foil and roast for another 5-10 minutes, to further reduce the collected liquid (keep in mind, the syrup will continue to thicken as it cools).
Using a fine-meshed sieve, strain the juices from the rhubarb. Stir the fruit to extract as much liquid as possible, but be careful not to push any solids through that might mar the clarity of the syrup. Remove the vanilla pod from the fruit in the sieve.
At this point the fruit can be reserved for another use.
While the syrup is warm but not hot, check for sweetness. Depending on your taste and the specific qualities of your rhubarb, you might want to add a bit more sugar or a squeeze of lime. Once to your liking, chill thoroughly.
The syrup can be used as you would a simple syrup in cocktails and lemonade, or simply over ice with sparkling water and mint. It's particularly nice over scoops of vanilla ice cream.
Keep both the fruit and syrup refrigerated until needed.
Makes around 2 cups, depending on the fruit and the thickness of the reduction.
Notes:
- I like to fork the fruit into a chunky compote, then eat it with Greek yogurt, and an extra pour of syrup to finish.
Nigella Lawson, rhubarb, summer 
Reader Comments (28)
from one rhubarb lover to another, my favourite post in a while, friend. nicely said.
Rhubarb is very much appreciated in the midwest of the U.S. Not so much in California when I grew up. My first taste was in London, as a newly arrived au pair, over classic Grand Marnier Custard, made by the French wife of the au pair agency.
It was divine and I became an instant lover of rhubarb.
It's heresy in my family, but I'm not a rhubarb lover. I don't dislike it, I just don't love it enough for the crush of rhubarb birthday pies.
BUT, I've had great success with a rhubarb coffee cake recipe (from the NYTimes a few years back) and this syrup recipe has me drooling. So maybe I'm just burned out on the pie aspect of it.
Wonderfully written. I am a HUGE fan of concentrated berry and fruit syrups- red and black currant, raspberry, and blueberry are very popular in Norway for making quick drinks. I have never, on the other hand tried a rhubarb version. This sounds awesome and I just so happen to have some family with a massive rhubarb plant in their yard. Will need to make this, stat!
this couldn't have come at a better time - we're getting (likely) rhubarb in our first CSA box tonight and i was already thinking about what to do with it. depending on how much there is, i may make this and then some jam, or maybe just a fruit spread as you've suggested with a little yogurt :)
thanks, and great story. i don't have a rhubarb story either, except that my hubs professed to hate it until last year when i cooked it for the first time. he's converted, for sure!
I haven't had a life-altering rhubarb experience either but I still love it. there's just something about it that I can't shake. This sounds delicious.
What a lovely, lovely written post Tara! I think I'll be using this syrup in some lemonade. The photos look absolutely gorgeous!
I LOVE rhubarb! Someone even asked me to stop writing about since it was all I talked about last month!?! My earliest memory is of it in my parent's garden. Yummy.
A Wonderful article, it made me wish I had some rhubarb!
An elderly uncle living in California returned back to Iowa to visit his sister and wrote me " I just planted some pie plant." That is what rhubarb was called when I grew up in Minnesota. I grew rhubarb in Oregon for 25 years and enjoyed it but am now living in northern Florida and have been told it is too hot here. I would love to find a way to grow my own so I could again make pies and sauce and cakes! Anyone growing rhubarb in North Florida? Robert McCoy 904-879-0186
That's a good rhubarb story - sure beats mine. Mine is that I live in Florida, the land of non-seasonal produce - I've never had rhubarb. I even went to Whole Foods to go buy it the other day, because I am just that curious - they were out! xxSAS
It's always nice to find a fellow rhubarb afficionado. :) My parents had a big rhubarb plant in the backyard when I was little, and my sister and I used to snag the pinkest, juiciest stalks we could find, and eat them by dunking them into the sugar pot to take the sour edge off... that's still one of my favourite things about early summer, actually.
I really like the sound of that rhubarb-mint soda water drink. I'll have to make this magical syrup!
hi all!
n, i know you get it, friend.
Vicki B, how gorgeous that sounds.
Rachel, I am seeking out that recipe for the coffee cake. You have me intrigued!
Thank you Kamran!
That's too funny, Kelsey - you and I can chat about it then. To your heart's content!
I hope you get yourself some rhubarb, Robert. I love the idea of it being called Pie Plant.
Sarah, fingers crossed for you!
Isabelle, that's the best. Someone I love very much has a similar story, and it always makes me smile.
I’m also one whose rhubarb story came round later in life. A beast of a plant was left behind in our community garden spot. Having been left on its own for a season, there were loads of thick stalks. My Mr.Mr., one of the childhood converts, advised that I make a gooey crumble from the lot. I was smitten. I adore how these mighty plants are passed along. And, your syrup seems the perfect way to honor their longevity.
I like this very much. Very, very much.
I can't wait to make this. So versatile - I have always liked rhubarb. Thanks - ann
That sounds delicious. Also a perfect way to spend a summer afternoon. Muddled with mint sounds like the perfect summer drink too, (too bad its winter for me :-)
Rhubarb does hold a couple of happy childhood memories for me, I am hoping I will start my own happy childhood memories for my boys as I recently made a Rhubarb and Apple Tart which they devoured, and are still asking for.
I don't have any nostalgic rhubarb stories either. I thought it was disgusting when kids walked around dipping stalks in sugar and eating it straight-up. I do love it now, and I'm hoping it doesn't have much to do with the fact that it's free.
Love this syrup - every summer I chop rhubarb and steep it then sweeten and chill for a sort of rhubarbade. Goes well in lemonade, too.
I love rhubarb but never really know how to use it - this is a brilliant idea.
I feel like I am walking in that garden with you. The pace of your words matches my imagined steps. I love the paragraphs with the parasol and the clock. Thank you.
Here in the mid-Atlantic region, we are well beyond rhubarb. I'll try your syrup next Spring when I want something new. Your photos are lovely, as are the colors.
Finally! Something delicious to do with mint and rhubarb...both are growing like weeds in my garden! Thanks!
*Thank you* for this rhubarb recipe! I just tasted a delllllicious rhubarb juice in a fabulous little place in Paris, and was wondering how to make it myself... I'll try your recipe, maybe it'll take me close to this rhubarb enchantment i experienced*** And while i'm here i want to tell you your pictures are as delicious as your recipes!
i don't have a rhubarb story either. to be honest, i don't get what all the fuss is about... but this syrup does sound interesting.
I have just started reading your blog and this first entry has got me hooked. I carn't wait to make my way through all your recipies. Thankyou!
If you enjoy cocktails with the loveliness of rhubarbs flavors, you should try rhubarb schnapps. I made Nigella Lawson's preparation recently, and is it ever good.
Thanks for the syrup recipe! I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE rhubarb and make tons of things with it (jam, pie, compote, braised pork etc.), but never thought about syrup. Yet, one of my favorite drinks is rhubarb lemonade and I kept complaining that it is nowhere to be found. Well, next year - next rhubarb season - I'll stock up on rhubarb syrup :)