Elbows on the table
Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 10:48PM 
I listened to a story teller a few nights back. Not a man telling a story, but a man whose entire being and was occupied with the business of weaving his tale.
His cadence was long and loping but deliberate, and it suited his southern drawl. The words meandered along the way to their destination, unhurried. If I squinted my eyes, it wasn't hard to imagine those words puffing out from his lips and into the air like smoke upon an exhale from a cigar.
The effect was entirely soothing, but so riveting was its interest that you could not help but hang onto every word. A hypnotist's lullaby.
He was really good.
When he stopped, I wanted to linger there in his phrases. To climb inside and stay a while.
Pulling me out of the blissful lethargy of his words was hunger. In this story, at the heart of it all, he used a sandwich as the embodiment of all he felt familiar.
By the end of that story, he made a sandwich sound really, very good.
He had been talking about New Orleans, and talking about po' boys. Talking about a sandwich that is messy, sloppy and soaked. He liked his with gravy, with the bread making valiant efforts to sop up as much as it could but failing, so that juice drips from that bump right where the heel of your palm ends and your wrist begins. A sandwich that requires your elbows on the table to provide proper purchase.
Without the necessary components of his ideal on hand, I turned to another, equally sodden sandwich to appease my yearning - pan bagnat.
A speciality of Nice, pan bagnat is a pressed sandwich stuffed to its crust with the goodies of a Niçoise salad. From bottom up, I'll walk you through it.
It starts with good bread. You need a boule with a crust substantial enough to stand up to the richness and literal weight of the filling. In this version, it's spread with tapenade then covered in whole basil leaves. Tiles of hard boiled egg are arranged next, then chunks of oil-packed tuna dressed in an assertive vinaigrette. Sliced red onion and cucumber are last in the instructions, but I added mixed greens for substantial crunch (and again, all of these were bathed in the vinaigrette as well).
The whole thing is wrapped tight and pressed, with the layers evening out and settling in. I should say your sandwich will be prettier than mine; I was so eager to share a slice with you that I hardly waited to snap the photo. Be patient. It needs that rest.
After a few hours the bread swells with the moisture and becomes softly chewy. Bite in, and there are layers of salt and acidity, of flavours and texture. The fatty blandness of the egg yolk melts into the seasoned tuna and rounds out the vinegar. The basil emerges from the murky depth of the tapenade, two big flavours in balance. The salad on top of it all is refreshing and palate clearing and gets the mouth ready for the next greedy bite.
And oh, a few bites in, you'll be able to move from two elbows to one firmly planted on the table. But, that said, keep this isn't a sandwich to be put down once you've begun eating. If you try, things will get complicated. Don't worry, now with the free hand you can grab a glass of cold, cold wine.
You won't need much else. Maybe a napkin. And a good story, if you're lucky.
Pan Bagnat
From Everyday Food: Fresh Flavor Fast (Random House Canada, 2010). I have just started cooking with this book, but for those who might be familiar with it's predecessor, Everyday Food: Great Food Fast, this title follows much the same style and feel.
Recipe, via Martha Stewart.
Reader Comments (30)
Beautiful!
This sounds delicious! A great idea for a picnic, no need to wrap a bunch of sandwiches and making it ahead of time only makes it better. Thank you for this!
Wow this looks great! Beautiful photograph as well. Looking forward to trying this!
http://amusebouche-caitlin.blogspot.com/
Beautiful picture, never tried Nicoise, don't like the egg and tuna combo, but seeing your picture I'd love to try it!
Love the contained meal here. And a wonderful story.
ann
what a lovely story about a storyteller :). i just thought this morning that it was about time for a post from you, and hoped i'd see you show up in my rss list today! thanks!
and this sandwich - man oh man - makes my big huge black bean burger look pretty boring right now, even if it is loaded with avocado and goat cheese!
I have been obsessing over this all morning! So beautiful, so fresh, so different. I'm going to have to make it. LOVE your blog, just found it and I'll be back.
I like the idea of telling an epic story through food. I think it must be one of the best vehicles. Plus then you get to eat it at the end. This sandwich looks delicious. One for the history books.
That looks really good. I could already picture the different fillings I would put.
you amaze me. someone could hate everything in this sandwich, and STILL pine for it after your description. I would like to listen to you tell stories and eat your sandwich please?
Thank you for creating such a lovely space : )
I’d like to invite you to win a piece of my fine art through a giveaway on my blog.
http://walterhelenaphotography.blogspot.com/2010/05/whp-giveaway-two-of-twelve-clouds.html
I wish you all my best.
WHP
I'm not a big sandwich fan, and have never wanted, much less longed for, a pan bagnat. And here I am, desperate. The power of a good story, indeed.
'Tis written like a good novel! If ever I saw this handsome sandwich...
Beautiful post. Thank you! I can almost taste the yummy flavours of this nourishing sandwich.
I think you've achieved the same result as the gentleman you described. You have inspired me to make this - ASAP! All of my favorite ingredients. I will let you know how it turns out! xxSAS
nice story dear..i gain a lot
I love the way you describe you loving the way HE is describing. Beautiful description, and one tasty looking sandwich. I think I would be super happy getting that one for lunch.
Holy manoly.
Incredible. Must make this at the cottage. Sounds perfect for an afternoon boat ride.
Thank you, Gemma!
It's lovely for a picnic, Erica - make one (or a few!) the day before, wrap and press overnight. The next day just lay out cutting boards and a knife and everyone can help themselves. It's also lovely with baguette.
Thanks for the kindness, Caitlin
Greekfoodlover, if you give it a try, please report back! Would love to hear your thoughts.
Thank you, ann, hope you have a lovely day.
So happy I could oblige, Heather! Nice to know you're looking out for me. And can I say, I would never turn down a black bean burger. Yours sounds delicious.
Nice to meet you Maggy! thanks for the sweet words.
I couldn't agree more, Joanne.
Joy, it is such an adaptable thing. Grilled veggies, or olive salad and meats for a muffuletta, so many options.
sara, you're too sweet. as always. we'd have such fun eating sandwiches and telling stories.
Thank you for the visit, WHP.
molly, you make me smile.
Elizabeth, I love the idea of a handsome sandwich!
nelli, it's a keeper.
Thank you for that, Sarah. You too, Asif.
It does make for a fine lunch, cityhippyfarmgirl!
Jason, so perfect for the cottage! Especially your cottage, which I think is the dreamiest I've seen in a while.
I quite like the idea of this sandwich. I agree with greekfoodlover, the combo of tuna and egg seems slightly off-putting. At the same time, though, the post has left me bedazzled and enthralled. I guess I'm going to have to get the move on making some boules so I can put together some pan bagnat.
Oh thanks, Tara!
So sweet. I do feel pretty lucky to have it.
Did I read somewhere that you're in London?
I was born and raised in London!
Wow, I am sitting here starving and just wishing I had those ingredients in my fridge right now! I will definitely be trying these - it sounds perfect for a picnic.
I'm so making this at the cabin.
You tell a heckuva story yourself! I'm completely sold on this sandwich and must have one...
Such a pretty pan bagnat. The bread looks exceptionally good.