Filled with possibility
Monday, February 22, 2010 at 11:41AM 
In the woods I can see from my window, the ground looks patchwork brown and white; an Appaloosa's coat imposed onto the landscape. Much of the snow remains, but in those places where it has gone, it's revealed the rock and earth beneath.
I am enough of a realist to accept that this most likely won't be the last of the snow, that the earth might soon again be covered, and that spring is still a ways away for us. For today, that glimpse is enough.
Right now I'm content to think of sweaters and wool blankets. But soon, quite soon I think, I'll be longing for the day the snow melts for good. Anxious and fidgety for a trod through that wood in the time of almost spring. Before the shoots begin, when all is brown and filled with possibility.
A walk where each step of rubber-clad foot is followed by the echoed squelch of the mud beneath.
In my mind's eye I see broad-checked flannel and tins of pretty cookies for later. But first, a thermos full of soup to bring warmth to the enjoyable dampness that surrounds. And as of this moment, if I had to decide, it would be mushroom soup that we'd sip and spoon.
I made some yesterday, so even though that picnic upon the forest floor is weeks away, you can still get the general idea of the way I'm thinking.
It has an aroma dense with notes of growth and loam. (Loam is such a good word, stretched out and rounded like a yawn.) Both fresh and dried mushrooms are cooked in a pan with olive oil, butter, onion and garlic. After 20 minutes of cooking, the mushrooms have gone through stages of transformation; first pale and spongy, then wet and a soggy, then as that moisture evaporates the mushrooms turn deeply golden and their texture goes satisfyingly chewy.
A pour of Sherry to deglaze, it sputters and bubbles into a winey syrup that coats the vegetables in gloss. In goes the stock, and all's left to simmer for 20 minutes more. Whirred to a foaming, ethereal purée, the soup is done save for the indulgent dollop of mascarpone right at the end.
And with that, into the woods we go.
One last thing, I'd like to thank Stephanie Levy for asking me to be a part of her Artists Who Blog series. If you'd like to take a look at what we talked about, she's posted my interview on her site.
The Real Mushroom Soup
From Jamie Oliver, the title's his, too.
Now mushroom soup depends greatly on the mushrooms itself; not only for flavour of course, but also for colour.
The bulk of the fresh mushrooms I used were the bark and black beauties, crimini and shiitakes, with only a handful each of ochre chanterelles and ivory oysters to counter that darkness. A mix favouring the paler varieties would result in a soup with looks more fawn than mouse.
That business on top there, there is purpose to that prettiness. A bit of herbs, croutons torn into buttery crumble, some sautéed mushrooms, together create the ideal counterpoint to the mellow earthiness of the soup; a freshness to the musky depth of its flavour and essential weight against the lightness of the emulsion. Mr. Oliver suggests a tranche of grilled bread instead of croutons, use whichever you like.
The only change I made to the recipe was the addition of Sherry when cooking the mushrooms, leaving out the lemon juice to finish.
dinner, jamie oliver, lunch, mushrooms, recipe, soup, vegetables 
Reader Comments (46)
I actually made this soup last winter and I didn't enjoy the dense loam. But I am however enjoying your post regardless.
beautiful post tara! spring is slowly creeping it's way here in seattle but it is still chilly so this soup seems perfect!
i think this looks wonderful and a fine thing to see us through til spring. here in dc it was quite warm (for feb) yesterday...took my dog out for an hour and between the smells and the birds and the not bitter breeze, it really started to seem like spring might not be too far off!
I totally agree on both counts - loam is a great word and false spring is lovely but hasn't quite managed to lull me into a false sense of security yet either.
Oh yeah! Mushroom soup and sherry!
My favorite. I've never made Jamie's recipe but I've copied and saved it.
I thought spring was here as well, but there is more cold weather coming the end of the week.
looks great, and a great portrayal of how many of us feel right now! it just snowed again in chicago today so it's definitely icky here :(
I love a good mushroom soup. This looks like a winner.
i have heard such great things about jaime's recipes, but have yet to try them. your soup looks perfect.
i am not sure about the soup...i would give it a try because of the images...stunning!
So lovely! I would like to crawl into your world, words always so soothing. Better than soup, even (and as a soup lover, I do not say that lightly:-)
Oh the soup looks beautiful!
i absolutely love the way you write about food.
Mmmmm... mushroom soup is one of my favorites.
I tried making a similar soup a couple of weeks ago, and frankly found it too loamy--but I was also using chestnut puree, which is probably what put the earthiness over the top.
I was working on replicating a soup I had in a restaurant, and I did finally succeed. The recipe is here: http://rowdychowgirl.wordpress.com/2010/02/08/from-the-foundation-up/
kickpleat, so sorry to hear you didn't enjoy it!
Coco, thanks so much. In a fit of irony, Mother Nature thought it funny to bury us in some fresh snow about an hour after I posted this. Soup definitely called for.
braiseandbutter, yes yesterday was lovely here too. Mild, considering, and the sun was bright and golden. A great day to be outside.
Sasa, the peek at spring was nice, but not giving up my duvet yet.
Barbara, so happy to have the company of another mushroom and Sherry fan.
heather, I hope you thaw out soon!
Maria, we liked it quite a lot. I hope you do too.
Sara, though not a vegetarian cookbook, Jamie at Home has some wonderful vegetable recipes. I could see you liking them.
red or gray art, thank you for that.
Tea, I'd love to have your company. Anytime.
Sook and STACEY MCCOOL, thank you both.
Rachel, my husband's too! He was really happy with this.
The Rowdy Chowgirl, glad you found a recipe that worked well for you!
Tara you write so beautifully. I see everything you write and believe me that's a great compliment. Just read your interview. Loved it.
Loam and gloaming, mellifluous and mushroom, so many lovely words and flavors all in one go. So happy for this soup and outlook, both. Merci.
Stretched out and rounded like a yawn, I love that bit. And the soup, perfection.
This is yummy!
what a lovely dish!
I have never made a bad Jamie Oliver recipe, and this one looks especially delicious.
I love the way you write. Because of that I am trying to make myself more aware of the world around me.
It's 7:30am in my part of the world now and I want soup! For breakfast!
Lovely post!!! I always enjoy your writing! This sounds sounds fantastic to me- earthy and robust!
i like the addition of the chanterelles and ivory oysters. mushroom soup is one of those dishes which tastes gorgeous, but doesnt look as gorgeous- you have achieved both! best wishes, shayma
Beautiful post! Makes me yearn for seasons I do not have...
This mushroom soup sounds delicious...I'll have it no matter what the weather :)