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Thursday
Aug132009

Glowed in my mind

I used to have a particular prejudice against banana cream pies. When I thought of them, I thought of flabby pastry barely-restraining globs of pudding soused with imitation banana flavouring and topped with mounds of cotton-candy-sweet cream. I assumed their only use was as the punchline to a gag; the projectile of choice for one clown to toss squarely into the pucker of another - most likely right after they had exited the confines of a very small car. Discarded pie everywhere, the crowd erupts in riotous laughter.

That is what I thought of banana cream pies.

As with most prejudices, mine was not rooted in much reason. Save for an encounter with some aggressively-flavoured banana pudding I had at a friends house as a child, I do not think I have ever tried anything remotely associated to a banana cream pie. Banana bread, we're old acquaintances. But banana cream pie and I were pretty much strangers.

Most often I see it offered against the gleaming expanse of diner counters, on mile-high cake stands, with its pristine swirls captured under a glass dome. I am almost enticed. But then my wandering eye catches glimpse of Banana Cream's sibling Coconut or its dreamy cousin Chocolate, both equally (and moreso) tempting. There's no contest. It hardly needs saying that my preference consistently falls with the the latter.

My dear friend, all of that is in the past. For now I am a full-fledged, card-carrying convert.

These past few days, I have had reason to feel thankful. Thankful in a way that makes you feel lucky. That makes you feel cared for. That makes you feel light. I have had good reason to feel crazy as well, but the thankful part far outweighs all of that nonsense.

I wanted to bake something for those responsible for some of that gratitude, to wordlessly express how much their efforts were appreciated. I feel like a Wednesday is a fine reason to celebrate when they are around. With book laid open, the recipe for banana cream pie grabbed my fancy and would not let go; the notion of a proper pie just about glowed in my mind with projected nostalgia.

So I baked my first banana cream pie. And what did I learn?

I learned that banana cream pies can be sublime. Now that is an often-used word when it comes to dessert, but a more apt description would be hard to find. This pie is worlds away from any of my preconceived notions. Crisp pastry cradles slices of ripe banana layered with smooth, spiced custard. The fruit and pastry cream are meltingly supple, melding into one, singular, wonderful texture. Atop all of this a cloud of heavy cream, barely whipped and barely sweet, tangy and bright with the addition of some sour cream.

If you are going to have a banana cream pie, please take my word and make it this one. This pie is not for throwing.

Banana Cream Pie
From the book Baking: From My Home to Yours (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2006) by Dorie Greenspan. A modern classic, this book is one of my most reliable resources - I have never been disappointed by a recipe. My family will heartily attest to that.

Recipe

Notes:

• I used dark brown sugar instead of light brown sugar in the filling as that was all I had on hand. The resulting custard had a deep, rich caramel flavour; its colour was a bit muddied, but we didn't mind.
• I added a good pinch of ground ginger to go along with the cinnamon and nutmeg.

Reader Comments (32)

I agree, every recipe Dorie makes is great. And agree that a dessert as pretty as this one is not to be thrown!

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMaris

Youe pie turned out amazing!!!! Everything I've made of Dorie's has been a success. Im so glad it was for you!

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJennifer

You have convinced me that I need to try this recipe asap. And I hope you find more joy in life everyday. Love the title of this post.

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAnh

I've never heard such a tempting description of banana cream pie...

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered Commenternicole

Oh Tara, this looks fabulous! As a big fan of bananas, I LOVE the idea of banana cream pie, but you're right, it is usually the slippery diner version that leaves me completely unsatisfied and underwhelmed.

I borrowed Dorie's book from my local library to give it a whirl and was very impressed. It has been added to the top of my "I want" list...

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAndrea [bella eats]

I swear by this book! It never leaves me hanging. I always by this recipe, not because I don't love bananas but because I connotate banana cream pie with diners, greasy burgers, and truckers. Sick, I know. But now, that's al changed :)

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAmanda

This looks delicious! I've always been a fan of all things banana (though Coconut Cream Pie is my absolute favourite), but I've never actually attempted a pie. We've always made fruit pies - strawberry, rhubarb, apples - but never a cream pie.

I think it'll go right up on my list of things to do!

K

This pie is definitely not for throwing! It looks great and I bet it tasted amazing. Dorie has such fantastic recipes.

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterNutmeg Nanny

Yum - you can't go wrong with Dorie!
OK... here is a strange question. What is the paint color behind your photo? I LOVE it!

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAnonymous

I LOVE banana cream pie. I think the notion of banana flavoring is what puts people off. Banana flavoring is unforgivable, but actual bananas are perfect.

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterRachel

I just started following your blog and I really like your writing style. It's a bit over-the-top at times but you have a keen eye and that really shows through.
Plus, now I reeeeeeally want some banana cream pie.

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterLaura

Excellent point about the clowns throwing totally underwhelming banana cream pies. One more reason for me to be completely terrified of clowns.

If one came at me with THAT banana cream pie, though, I would gladly accept it. That is to say I would grab the pie and run like hell.

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterShauna from Piece of Cake

Seriously, seriously gorgeous, Tara.

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterKristin

I love Dorie's cookbook and use it often myself. I have not yet tried this one but your pie looks absolutely lovely. I may try my hand at a banana cream pie very soon!

August 14, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterlisa (dandysuagr)

Welcome to the club - I've always loved a good cream pie! I am especially fond of butterscotch meringue but banana cream is divine, too. I usually top mine with lots of shaved toasted coconut, too.

August 15, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterdanamccauley

It looks like it comes straight from a cooking magazine. It's absolutely gorgeous!

August 15, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJackie at Phamfatale.com

I agree, that one of my stand by resources!! Love your pie, it is beautiful.

August 15, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterKelsey B.

I must say I have never been a fan of banana cream pie. And in fact, I don't think I've ever tasted it. The ones I've seen in the past left me uninspired. But they were obviously not the work of Dorie. So with that in mind, and this lovely photograph, I may too be converted....well, to try it at least!

August 15, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJulia @ Mélanger

Maris, whenever I am looking for a classic recipe that is assuredly very good, Baking is the book I open first.

Jennifer, thank you - everyone really enjoyed it.

Anh, thank you! Please let us know if you try it out. I think it would be especially good in the fall and winter, the warm spices seem perfect for colder days.

nicole, thank you, you're too kind!

Andrea [bella eats], so m any diner versions suffer from being utterly beige. There is nothing tempting about that - the joy of Dorie's is the contrast of textures between the crust and the filling, and the the sweetness of the bananas against the slight soured freshness of the topping. I am sure you'd do wonderful things with this book in your talented hands.

Amanda, welcome to the club!

Kristilyn (The Domestic Goddess), if I am being honest, coconut cream and chocolate cream still rank higher than banana cream, but before making this one the latter was hardly on my radar. It's a step up!

Nutmeg Nanny, she does, doesn't she? Reliable in their results and always crowd-pleasing.

Anonymous, not a strange question! I'm glad you like it - it is a Benjamin Moore paint, called Waterfall (2050-50). It is one of those shades that completely changes depending on the light.

Rachel, I think you're right. Fake banana always reminds me of fluoride at the dentist's office while real bananas are one of my favourite things for baking - we almost always have some in the house.

Laura, thanks so much for the kindness! Glad to have you around. As for being a wee bit over the top, I take that as a good thing.

Shauna from Piece of Cake, yours is seriously one of my favourite comments ever.

Kristin, thanks so much, m'dear!

lisa (dandysuagr), I highly recommend the recipe (if that wasn't obvious already). Although there are multiple components, none of them are time-consuming or difficult.

danamccauley, now I want to make a butterscotch pie. Or another banana cream pie with coconut. I am sure yours are amazing.

Jackie at Phamfatale.com and Kelsey B., thank you both so much.

Julia @ Mélanger, you sound exactly like I did before I tried this pie. I was sort of ambivalent to them, but now I am already thinking of those friends and family who'd appreciate one in the future. The banana filling is such a childhood flavour, it wins on sentimentality alone.

August 16, 2009 | Unregistered Commentertara

Great photos! I've been looking at getting one of Dorie's books, thanks for the recommendation. :)

August 17, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAnita

You've convinced me!! This looks absolutely scrumptious!

August 17, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterReeni♥

Wow! This I have to try! Thanks for sharing =)

August 18, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterClaire

I have to admit that I had a prejudice against banana cream pies, too... the photos of yours might have just convinced me otherwise!

August 18, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterrachel

your pie looks amazing! My, you have a great eye for food display!! And, I so want to taste this pie!!

August 20, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterCeline

I have loved banana cream pie for a long time, but sort of forgot about it. I read this post for the first time a few days ago, and came back hoping to salivate a little bit more.

You have a such a beautiful blog.

August 21, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterThe Leftoverist

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