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Thursday
Jul302009

Loudly quiet

I was sitting in the front room yesterday, my head bent over a book and my back to the open window. I was preoccupied with the words on the page, and did not fully note the gaining volume of the wind through the trees. What pulled me out of my concentration was a feeling against my neck. It was raining. With that rain had come a cool that entered the house like a spirit, slipping past the windowsill and settling in.

In our part of Ontario, and from what I hear of the Northeastern United States, it has been one wet summer. In fact, we've had rain of every character.

We were prey to fierce thunderstorms. They felt dramatic and enticingly-wild at first, but gathered with such quick extremity that they more than approached threatening. Lightning lit up the sky with violent fireworks. Thunder rattled nerves and set the mind on edge. The house creaked and groaned with the impact of a thousand million blows.

There was the rain that seemed without beginning or end. It was gloomy weather, and the world seemed perpetually sodden. The rain dripped dispiritedly. Damp, dismal, dreary, and just about any other depressing (another one!) d-beginning adjective you could think of.

There came the rain that wasn't rain at all, but something in between humidity and a low-flying cloud. Wetter than fog, the air was full with suspended moisture that slicked all surfaces, both inside and out.

The moments of sunshine we've seen have been fleeting. Most days there has been rain, or the threat of impending rain, with foreboding clouds looming on the horizon, all around.

What with all of our watery forecasts, the smile that tugged at my lips that stormy afternoon might seem unexpected. But despite all the woebegone times of pressing our foreheads to the windowpanes and watching rain fall down, I still fall hard for the moments of enchantment those same rains can bring.

Take yesterday, with its unnatural midday darkness. All was loudly quiet as I moved from room to room, the constant patter of plump drops muffling most other noises. Now and again I could hear children, the little girls from down the street I think, dancing in puddles. Splashes then squeals. Their giggles sharp and joyful, cutting through the din. The street shone wet, gleaming black as the streetlights flickered on.

It was magic. And it was the perfect time for some baking.

Although fruit desserts reign supreme come summertime, I usually think of crisps as the ideal for cooler months. With their slowly-stewed bottoms and buttery crusts, they feel best suited to autumn evenings curled up by the fire. But with the rain we've had, the decidedly unfussy nature of a crisp fit in beautifully with my afternoon plans of busying myself indoors. And as that rain brought cool as its travelling companion, I didn't mind the idea of turning on the oven.

This peach crisp is gloriously uncluttered with nothing else but the essentials. Nothing taxing to muddle about with, only a layer of sweet cream cushioning plump, honeyed crescents of peach, buried beneath an oaten rubble. When baked, the fruit is exceedingly voluptuous, its flesh supple and its juices seeping out.

Each bite of golden peach was soaked heavy with the memory of sunshine. The rain doesn't seem so bad after all.

Sour Cream and Peach Crisp
My own thrown-together interpretation of a variety of sources, so I'll send credit to Deb for reminding me of the combination.

Ingredients
2/3 cup all purpose flour
1/3 cup whole wheat flour
1/3 cup old-fashioned, large flake oats (not instant)
1/3 cup brown sugar
4 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
1-2 teaspoons crystalized ginger, finely minced (optional)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick, 8 tablespoons) cold, unsalted butter, cut into cubes
8 ounces sour cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 pounds peaches, cut into quarters
Coarse or sanding sugar for sprinkling (optional)

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).

In a large bowl, or in the bowl of a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, combine flours, oats, brown sugar, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, ginger and salt. Using a pastry cutter, or the mixer on its lowest speed, cut the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles a coarse, uneven meal. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, stir the remaining 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar with the sour cream and vanilla until dissolved.

Take a few scant handfuls of the oat mixture and sprinkle it in the bottom of a 9-inch pie plate or shallow dish. Spoon over the sour cream, spreading to cover completely. Arrange the peach slices, cut side up, on top of the cream. Sprinkle the remaining oat mixture over the fruit, leaving a bit of fruit peaking out of the edges. Sprinkle with coarse sugar.

Bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes, or until the cream is set, the peaches are tender and the topping is golden brown. Allow to cool on a rack for a few minutes, serving warm or cold.

Makes one 9-inch crisp.

Notes:

• I used a five-grain rolled cereal instead of oats alone.
• I leave the skin on the peaches, as it helps them retain their shape and I like the prettiness of their scarlet-stained tips. If you prefer to blanch the skins and remove them, feel free to do so.
• This crisp is best when the peaches truly juicy; it is their moisture that helps set the cream into a layer akin to a custard, rather than becoming stodgy and dry. If you have any concerns, you can follow Sean's suggestion of adding a handful or two of berries (blackberries or raspberries would be particularly good).

Reader Comments (20)

The imagery of this post is gorgeous and riveting. And, as we've experienced these rains as well, I completely relate. You're a dear for encouraging a spell of baking during a cool, rainy summer's day. Also, may I ask what book you were reading that was so engrossing?

July 30, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJennifer

I LOVE you for this as the farmer's market has the most amazing peaches right now, and last weekend I made the worst cobbler on earth with them. I crisp I can handle much better:)

July 30, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterKate

Oh delicious! I l.o.v.e. crumbles...so easy and wonderfully satisfying. We are peach picking again this weekend so I am definitely adding this to the list!

Your writing is so wonderful Tara. I am completely entranced by your posts.

July 30, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAndrea [bella eats]

Living in sub-tropical Brisbane, I completely relate to thunderstorms. They can be so dramatic. Love this crisp. Nothing like gloomy weather to provide an opportunity for baking!

July 30, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJulia @ Mélanger

AH, the mistressy, misty rain. The languid globs of rain. the many moods of rain. they have been utterly fantastic. my glee at this summer has been very indulgent and guilty. but the wildness the 'enchantment' you describe so precisely is so wickedly intoxicating that i can't help but revel.

Making this peachy crisp sounds like a good way to revel.

July 30, 2009 | Unregistered Commentererin

Your description of the rain is very poetic ... and I have been hungry for peach crisp all week ... what a lovely and unique combination, rain and peaches!!!

PS - Sadly, we're in the midst of a serious drought here in Minnesota ...

July 30, 2009 | Unregistered Commentershoe

Your peach crisp looks amazing!

July 30, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterNutmeg Nanny

You're writing is lovely. I'm so happy to have discovered this blog.

July 30, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterNealey Dozier

What a lovely post. I love your description of "rain that wasn't rain at all". That is most of the year in Seattle. :) As you have probably noticed on Twitter, we have had a spectacular summer which is resulting in incredible produce. The peaches are huge this year. I like my peaches best in something simple like this, where their flavor can shine through.

July 31, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterDana

nothing beats a stone fruit crisps. something so rustic and simple can be such a special treat!

July 31, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterAran

A peach crisp with sour cream sounds so good!

July 31, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterKevin

oh this is wonderful... We've been getting the same rains in alberta, and the only respite they bring is the coolness to bake. I love peaches, and will try this soon. xo

August 1, 2009 | Unregistered Commentermieletcannelle

Brilliant - had my mind set on a pie, but a crisp is even more likely to be made in a timely manner. Thanks!

August 2, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJulie

Jennifer, thanks for the kind words! I was reading Ondaatje's In the Skin of a Lion. I've read many times, but it still has the ability to completely pull me in.

Kate, the love's sent right back your way! What went awry with the cobbler? I hope this crisp will not disappoint.

Andrea [bella eats], thank you so much for the sweetness! You are a peach-picking machine! Cannot wait to see what you come up with for your harvest. I love the (almost) immediate gratification of a crumble, I love a pie but the are must more persnickety.

Julia @ Mélanger, baking is a lovely pastime for these rainy afternoons!

erin, beautifully, beautifully said.

shoe, I am sorry to hear of the drought, but I thank you for your compliment. Hope the rain comes your way soon.

Nutmeg Nanny, thank you!

Nealey Dozier, thanks for the visit, hope to see you again.

Dana, I am hoping all this rain doesn't effect our local produce too much. We're sorely lacking in sunshine. I am in totally agreement, when the produce is good I hate to muss it up with too much else. I think the little bit of cream and simple topping highlight, rather than mask, the fruit's charms.

Aran, it is wonderful when a few little additions can make something that's already delicious seem that much more special.

Kevin, I am very fond of the combination. It is a lovely pairing with stone fruits and most berries.

mieletcannelle, please let us know if you do try it out! It's raining here (again) in Ontario today, after a spectacular day yesterday. Hope your skies are sunny.

Julie, you can never go wrong with a pie or a crumble, so either way you're set!

August 2, 2009 | Unregistered Commentertara

Made this last night for dessert - the only switch I made was using fresh grated ginger. I mixed it in with the sour cream. It gave it a nice little bit of spice. What a fantastic recipe. Even though this was intended for more than two people, it won't last long in our house! Thank you so much - will be back to try more.xo

August 2, 2009 | Unregistered Commentermieletcannelle

Great story! I could almost hear the thunderstorm.

I bought a whole bag of peaches at the farmers market on saturday that smelled amazing, but the texture was spongy and horrible so I turned them into a crisp tonight. I like your addition of sour cream.

August 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterMarc @ NoRecipes

a delicious looking recipe, and a wonderful description of the summer rains. thanks for sharing, and i hope the sun finds you soon.

August 3, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterBF

mieletcannelle; I am thrilled beyond words that you tried out the recipe, and even happier that you liked it! That's just wonderful. Fresh grated ginger sounds like a fine substitution, and something I'm eager to try for myself!

Marc @ NoRecipes, thank you so very much. Crisps are the great leveler when it comes to substandard produce, no?

BF, I am so glad you enjoyed the read. Thank you for the visit.

August 5, 2009 | Unregistered Commentertara

Your prose transports me. Who dares say that "bloggers" aren't "writers"!!? Please continue to allow me into the lush and lovely world (mental as well as physical) that you inhabit.

August 5, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterVivian

Looks so delicious, You're writing is inspirational! Loving your blog!

September 23, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterSouthern Grace Gourmet

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