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Sunday
Jul202008

A master's work; a review of Chocolate Epiphany


François Payard's Chocolate Meringue Tarts in miniature; photo courtesy of Deep Media.

When I was little, I took piano lessons to little success. Even though I could manage to replicate notes on the page, I never had the 'sense' for the keys that makes one feel in ownership of the music. Nonetheless, I would spend the requisite time practicing on the keyboard at home, repeating the disjointed notes over and over until I hoped I had mastered them.

It was during these practices that my father would sometimes wander into the room and take over the keys; though wholly self-taught, he had such an ear for music that he could easily reproduce my melodies in their entirety. What's more, he would infuse them with nuance and a character deeper than the notes themselves.

In that simple exercise I saw what it mean to be an artist.

I had a similar feeling of revelation when I had the opportunity to review François Payard's third book, Chocolate Epiphany (Clarkson Potter, 2008). Though a fairly-proficient home baker, I could not help but be awed by the chocolate creations featured within. From the straightforward to the fanciful to the elegant, Payard (with Anne E. McBride) presents confections as beautiful as they are delicious.

Though focused solely on chocolate, the book covers a surprising breadth of recipes. After the helpful introductory guide, breakfast and brunch dishes are offered first, followed by chapters highlighting specific dessert forms (cookies, cakes and mousses, among others). The recipes encompass both the traditional and the unexpected, with classic favourites placed alongside inventive combinations of flavours and textures. There is no prejudice regarding chocolate varieties, with white, milk and dark all given the opportunity to shine.

As to be expected with his pedigree, the acclaimed pastry chef, James Beard Award winner and owner of a collection of pâtisseries/bistros includes recipes that are somewhat intimidating at first glance. These require a good deal of patience, reasonable skill and, in many cases, specialty equipment.

For example, the American Opera Cake calls for no less than four separate component recipes and three pages of instructions. That said, the expertly-detailed steps allow for stunning results that merit the effort. Between the chocolate cake layers Payard ingeniously switches the classic coffee buttercream filling for a peanut version alternated with a decadent peanut butter ganache. If that was not enough, a dark chocolate ganache is finally poured over all. The finished cake is a masterpiece of textures and a show-stopping celebration dessert to say the least.

Equally impressive are the Chocolate Pavlovas with Chocolate Mascarpone Mousse. Here Payard innovates by reconfiguring the form from a simple flat base into a full sphere of meringue filled with liqueur-laced mousse and topped with a flourish of mascarpone cream. Again, this is a recipe that one should carefully read before attempting, but the instructions are well laid out, concise and easy to follow.

Amongst these rather grand recipes Payard sprinkles in some beatifully-simple ones. Triple Chocolate Financiers (recipe) are a perfect little treat alongside coffee, Chocolate Rice Crispies are a bit of kitchy fun, and Chocolate Blinis elevate breakfast to a whole new level.

I was particularly fond of the Chocolate Meringue Tart (pictured, above). A cocoa makeover of the lemon meringue version from his childhood, Payard creates a recipe that is easy to assemble but with outstanding results. His Sweet Tart Dough comes together quickly and is a joy to work with. It is baked until golden, then filled with a luscious dark chocolate filling and crowned with peaks of scorched Swiss Meringue. Absolutely delicious.

One caveat, I did end up with an excess of filling even though I followed the recipe to the specific weight measurement of each ingredient.

Rounding out the contents is an indispensable chapter of basics; buttercreams, Crème Anglaise, doughs, and often-used base cakes are explained here, with tips and tricks usually only learned with years of experience. For those wishing to replicate the exquisite decorations that adorn many of the desserts, there are also step-by-step directions to creations like chocolate fans, drops, sticks, and shards.

The sumptuous photographs by Rogerio Voltan are tempting to say the least; with tightly cropped images that beautifully convey the various textures and elements of the recipes. My only complaint is that I could not find photo captions for the desserts featured on the chapter cover pages. While this information is included in the general index, the omission of labels alongside the specific images might be frustrating to those who find it difficult to match the photos with the corresponding recipe.

Nonetheless, Chocolate Epiphany is decadence at its best; truly an opus of cacao bean, with a Maestro's passion and expertise leading the way.

Some recipes from the book can be found online here and here.


Cover image courtesy Clarkson Potter.

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Reader Comments (13)

Wonderful looking tart! And the book sounds like one that should be "resting" on my shelf :)

July 21, 2008 | Unregistered Commentermiri

Thank for the thoughtful review. I might need to add this to my collection. You can never have to many books on chocolate. That's a fact!

July 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterGirlCanBake

Lovely tarts, and I likr the book, too!

July 22, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterMadam Chow

A comprehensive and well written review.
The tarts, as with all the photos I've seen here as I've browsed around, are lovely.
As a die hard chocolate lover I enjoyed reading this, thanks!

July 23, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterErinn

this book is now a wish list item in my amazon store. the tarts look great!

July 23, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterBecky

I love this book too!

July 23, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterMy Sweet & Saucy

Hi! :)

We're inviting you to join our blogroll!

The Key Ingredient blogroll features a growing list of food blogs that focus on baking and cooking a combination of sweet and savory foods.

Please contact sophiekiblogger@gmail.com for more details on how to join the blogroll or sign up at http://blog.keyingredient.com/BlogrollSignup.html



Warm Regards,
Sophie
KI's Chief Blogger

July 23, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterSophie

I lose myself on your site - it's dreamy and sleepy and exciting all at once. Gorgeous place to rest, to dream to imagine - thanks so much.

July 23, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterjustfoodnow

*drools* I must get that book!

I love your blog :)

July 24, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterKatie

Your chocolate post reminded me of a recipe I just came across the other day from Sunset magazine. It's for a http://find.myrecipes.com/recipes/recipefinder.dyn?action=displayRecipe&recipe_id=1816292" REL="nofollow">salted chocolate tart, and the photo that accompanied it was gorgeous. My tart pan has been looking at me longingly lately, so I think I'll have to find this book you recommended, too. Love your site, Tara!

July 24, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterCarrie

Yum! For some reason, I don't think having too much of that chocolate filling was an all around terrible experience :)

July 26, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterOakley Rhodes

Oh my goodness...these tarts look so delicious. I think I need this book!.

All the best,

Mary
http://marysnest.typepad.com/

July 29, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterMary

miri, thanks for saying so!

GirlCanBake, I am glad that you enjoyed the review and I heartily agree that one can never have too many books on the subject of chocolate!

Madam Chow, thanks!

Erinn, how kind of you to say. I hope you enjoy the book if you pick it up. Cheers!

Becky, I hope your wish for the book comes true! I am already looking for excuses to try another recipe.


My Sweet&Saucy, glad to hear you're also a fan!

Sophie, thanks for the invitation!

justfoodnow, you're very welcome. I am happy to hear that you enjoy the site. Hope to see you back again!

Katie, thanks so much!

Carrie, I have gone and bookmarked the recipe. The salted chocolate tart looks to die for. Thanks for the kind words.

Oakley Rhodes, you will notice that I mentioned the leftover chocolate ... I never would complain about such a thing! It is a great filling, and it simply gave me the excuse to make the miniature tarts pictured.

Thanks for stopping by, Mary!

July 29, 2008 | Unregistered Commentertara

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