Without edge
Tuesday, October 5, 2010 at 10:41PM 
There is a quiet gentleness to the word pudding, or even better its diminutive form, pud. I’m considering it in its larger scope, the loosely-defined notion of desserts in general, not the narrow view of custard alone.
Pudding has a welcoming, nursery-school comfort to its sound. Placing the phrase “Caramel Self-Saucing” as a prefix only serves to amplify that quality.
However, for all their soothing reputation, these petite darlings gave me a world of trouble. Well, not these ones, as these ones right here are the ones that were made after the hair pulling. After the whispered mutterings punctuated by half-swallowed curses. These ones were the ones that reminded me when made well, a proper pud is your bestest bud on an autumn afternoon. These are the ones that made me do a happy dance in my kitchen, right there by the stove.
What was it that caused all my trouble? Only this - I wanted these cakes to be darned special for all their humbleness. I wanted them pleasantly solid and touched with caramel, and perfectly spoonable.
Before I get into the account of my failure, it would be remiss to jaunt merrily ahead when I've not given Self-Saucing Puddings the introduction they're due.
To make this miraculous invention, you stir together a simple batter that's spooned into a buttered baking dish. Then your pour a watery syrup, in this instance a caramel one, over top the uncooked cake. Yes, over top. It looks a right mess, and you're thinking you've ruined the whole recipe, because who is going to want to eat something that looks like a sludge-covered bog, and gracious, will your friends ever even want to come over again after you serve them swamp pudding? Steel yourself and pop that dish in the oven.
Take a deep breath and uncross your fingers. You needn't worry. Promise.
The cake will take care of itself. As it bakes, the modest batter grows, rising above the murky darkness of the liquid. And that syrup, so unceremoniously displaced, will sink and ooze its way down, around and through the cake, ending up as a thickened puddle at the bottom of the dish.
And, as someone smart recently said to me, "what could be better than finding warm caramel on the bottom of a yummy cake?" Good question.
Now suitably lulled by that blissful notion, here is the story of my failures.
My first go gave me a cake that was perfectly serviceable. Its top had a light sugar glaze that was crystalized and pretty - a sugared crust created by the syrup as it sank. But the caramel was where it faltered - I'd pulled muscovado from the pantry, craving its burnt-toffee sweetness and the suggestion of treacle. What I ended up with was far more than a suggestion, it was a manifesto yelled from the depths of my bowl. It was so sugary it hurt.
I tried again. This time with dark brown sugar and a greater ratio of water to sugar and less syrup on the whole.
Then the cake. Serviceable wasn't enough. I was going for better than that. I'd put roasted walnuts in the first try, which gave a rough crumb that reminded me of tweed coats and cable knit sweaters. This time around, as I was melting the butter, it hit me - let it brown. So I did, watching with far more glee than is probably normal for one to feel over a saucepan of bubbling butter, as it went from buttercup to deeper golden, and finally touched with umber.
The aromatic butter was transformative. The cake was given voice against the caramel, in harmonious tandem.
The third try was a minor tweak - seeds from a vanilla bean. It is a sleepy spice, with a murmured warmth that is without edge. It's the accent of a hushed baritone. The duet turned a trio and was improved by the collaboration.
That was the charm, as they say. For here was the pud I'd wanted, one that lived up to its name.
Caramel Self-Saucing Walnut Puddings
Ingredients
For the syrup
1/2 cup brown sugar, lightly packed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup water
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
For the cake
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
4 ounces walnuts, toasted and ground into meal with a food processor
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup brown sugar, lightly packed
1/4 cup milk
Seeds scraped from one vanilla bean
4-6 small fresh figs, sliced (optional)
Lightly-whipped cream to serve
Start with the syrup. In a small saucepan, over medium heat, melt the butter. Once liquid, stir in the brown sugar to combine along with the salt. Pour in the water and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for five minutes. Set aside.
Preheat an oven to 325°F (160°C).
In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the 6 tablespoons butter. Cook until the butter begins to brown and smell toasty, around 5 minutes. Set aside to cool, stirring occasionally - it will continue to darken as it sits.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. In another bowl, stir together the browned butter, walnut meal, eggs, brown sugar, milk and seeds from the vanilla bean. Once combined, stir in the dry ingredients until just blended. Do not overmix.
Divide the pudding mixture between 6 x 1-cup capacity greased oven-safe dishes. Top with sliced figs.
Give the syrup a stir if needed, then carefully pour some over the back of a spoon onto each of the cakes, trying not to disturb the figs. The cakes will look a mess, but don't worry. Bake in the preheated oven until the cake is puffed and set, with a dry, glistening crust and you can see the syrup bubbling around the edge of the dishes, around 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool for 5 minutes before serving with the cream.
Makes 6.
Reader Comments (61)
It seems to have all been said. What a perfect fall treat! Yum.
Hi Tara,
Those look absolutely scrumptious! Haha! I was wondering where you bought those pretty bowls from, are they the mini latte bowls from anthropology?
I've been eyeing those bowls, but i'm not sure if they are oven-safe!
thank you:)
Oh my oh my oh my. Forget cake - this is what I want for my autumn birthday this year. This looks absolutely incredible.
Also? "Sludge-covered bog" and "swamp pudding"? Heeheeheehee...
YOU are amazing. I've been a lurker for sometime and this one just made me have to chime in. Your photos great. Your writing histerical. Your food amazing. I'm going to make this tonight. Thank god you perfected it!!!! Brilliant Tara. Going throughyour process reminds me of how much fun it is to cook and share.
Every word in the title of this recipe is making me salivate. Oh my goodness, I NEED to make these.
You, my dear, have utterly outdone yourself.
Hi! I just discovered the site and reading older posts.
Delicious recipes! Have to go through briefly!
Take care! AnaV.
what a lovely sounding dessert! i do love caramel almost any way i can get it, so i wouldn't have complained even if it didn't sink to the bottom. will definitely keep this in mind for an upcoming dinner :).
I want these so badly. Beautiful as always.
I can't tell you how much I admire your fortitude. When I have a recipe that just doesn't come together as I want it to, my first reaction is to throw it to the nether regions of my books and notebooks to never think of it again. The fact that you worked on this three times to make it perfect for your guests - and all of us - makes me deeply grateful. Caramel anything makes me extremely happy.
This looks fantastic! And also a good way to get my husband to eat walnuts.
Clearly, I'm not alone in my oohs and ahs here. Wow. And your photos, as always, are breathtaking.
Wow. The dishes you post are always jaw-dropping and this is no exception. I've never tried a self-saucing pudding but this one sounds like a winner to me!
oh wow, these look amaaazing. beautiful pictures, can't wait to try these out!:)
i just can't even handle your descriptions, i felt like i was making this recipe with you. So envious of your skill, my friend. They look lovely, Tara.
caramel... walnuts... figs... oh my... this looks delicious!
you had me at self saucing. yum!
Just discovered your blog + photos and they're both beautiful. Love it. Thanks for all the good work, can't wait to try your recipes!
such "gentle" writing...endeering. And the "pud" now must be tried!!!
I am eating with my eyes and my mouth is watering already without even looking at the recipe.
Gorgeous fig pudding! Makes me want to bake one right now.
Fantastic food photography.
Those green remekin-like bowls are the perfect size and color. Where did you get them?
Also, the figs look so cozy hanging out in that batter. Makes me want to go snuggle-up in bed!
pudding makes me feel warm and fuzzy all over! Your pictures look fabulous :)
http://greenoatsandjam.wordpress.com
This looks absolutly amazing! Can't wait to try it. Thanks for sharing!
Self-saucing pudding. I had no idea such a wonder could exist. My stomach grumbles as I write.
i like stories about the way to success, especially those about culinary experiments! thanks for the story and recipe :)